Can you throw a flick disc golf shot? Yes, anyone can learn to throw a successful forehand flick in disc golf with practice and the right steps. This guide will help you master this vital shot.
Grasping the Basics of the Forehand Flick
The flick shot, often called the forehand, is a cornerstone of advanced disc golf throws. Many players rely on it for tight gaps or when playing courses that favor a right-hand backhand (RHBH) player throwing left-to-right shots. Mastering the forehand disc golf flick adds powerful versatility to your game.
A successful flick requires three main things: a solid grip, a smooth pull, and good timing. It uses the muscles on the outside of your body, opposite to the backhand throw.
Deciphering Flick Disc Golf Stability
Disc flight depends heavily on the disc’s stability. This term tells you how a disc turns relative to your throw angle.
- Understable Discs: These turn more to the right (for RHBH throwers) or significantly to the left (for RH forehand throwers). Great for beginners or for achieving extreme right turns (for RH throwers).
- Stable Discs: These fly straight once they fight the initial turn. They are good for predictable approach shots.
- Overstable Discs: These resist turning and fade hard to the left (for RHBH throwers) or sharply right (for RH forehand throwers). Good for fighting wind or making sharp doglegs.
When learning the flick disc golf technique, start with slightly understable drivers or midranges. This makes it easier to see the intended flight path as you build arm speed.
Setting Up the Perfect Shot: Grip and Stance
Your starting position is crucial for power and accuracy. A poor setup leads to poor throws every time.
Achieving the Proper Flick Disc Golf Grip
The grip transfers all your power to the disc. For the flick, you need a firm but not choking grip.
Here are steps for the proper flick disc golf grip:
- Inside Edge Contact: Place your index finger firmly along the inside rim of the disc.
- Middle Finger Placement: Your middle finger should rest right next to the index finger, applying pressure on the bottom flight plate.
- The ‘V’ Shape: Your thumb rests on top of the flight plate, creating a slight ‘V’ shape between your index and middle fingers underneath.
- Pressure Points: Focus pressure mostly between your thumb and your middle/index fingers. The grip should feel secure enough that the disc won’t fall out, but not so tight that your forearm tenses up. A death grip reduces speed.
Stance and Weight Transfer
The stance helps generate forward momentum into the throw.
- Stance Setup: Stand slightly open to your target, maybe 45 degrees. Your feet should be about shoulder-width apart. Imagine you are set up for a short pitch in baseball.
- Weight Shift: Start with most of your weight (about 60-70%) on your back foot (right foot for a right-handed thrower).
- The Forward Load: As you start your arm swing, smoothly shift your weight forward onto your front foot. This weight transfer adds significant power. Do not rush this part.
The Throwing Motion: Pulling Through and Releasing
This is where timing and coordination come into play. The motion is often described as an accelerating “whip.”
The Pull Through and Reach Back
Unlike the backhand, the flick starts with the disc somewhat further away from your chest.
- Elbow Lead: The key to a powerful forehand is leading with your elbow. Your arm should move back slightly, keeping the disc away from your body, forming a wide arc.
- Hand Position: Keep your wrist cocked back slightly (flexed backward) throughout the initial pull. This loading is vital for the snap later.
- Acceleration Zone: As your arm moves across your chest toward the target line, your elbow straightens. The disc should accelerate rapidly as it approaches the release point.
Maximizing Flick Disc Golf Distance Through Acceleration
To achieve maximizing flick disc golf distance, focus on speed right at the release. Think about pulling the disc through the fastest possible point, similar to throwing a frisbee really hard along the ground.
- Straight Line Pull: Try to pull the disc along a straight line toward the target, not in a big circle around your body.
- Footwork Integration: The final push off your back foot and planting of your front foot should time perfectly with the disc hitting maximum speed near your chest.
The Release and Wrist Snap Flick
The release dictates the initial flight angle and spin rate. High spin equals better stability and distance.
The disc golf wrist snap flick is the final ingredient for high-speed throws.
- Wrist Position at Release: As the disc passes your chest, violently flick your wrist forward, straightening it quickly. This adds rotational energy (spin) to the disc.
- Angle of Release (AOA): For a straight, powerful shot, the disc should leave your hand flat or very slightly tilted upward (nose slightly up). Avoid throwing the disc nose-up, as this causes immediate lift and stalls the flight.
- Follow-Through: Your arm should continue moving toward the target after release, finishing high and slightly across your body.
Advanced Flick Shots and Flight Paths
Once you master the straight flick, you can manipulate the disc flight for specific situations. This moves you into executing advanced disc golf throws like the hyzer flip and anhyzer shots.
Throwing a Hyzer Flip Disc (The Roller Prep)
Throwing a hyzer flip disc is essential for long-distance tunnel shots. This shot utilizes the disc’s inherent turning tendencies to counteract a release angle.
To throw a hyzer flip forehand:
- Disc Choice: Select a disc that is slightly understable or neutral for your current arm speed.
- Release Angle: Release the disc tilted significantly down away from the target line (a steep hyzer angle).
- The Flight Goal: As the disc flies, its rotational energy (spin) fights the hyzer angle. If thrown correctly, the disc will rapidly flip up to flat, fly straight for a long time, and then exhibit its natural fade. This technique is key to maximizing flick disc golf distance on straight fairways.
Shaping Shots with the Disc Golf Anhyzer Flick
The disc golf anhyzer flick sends the disc immediately turning away from the natural fade path.
- Release Angle: Release the disc tilted significantly up toward the outside (a steep anhyzer angle for RH throwers).
- Flight Path: The disc will immediately bank hard to the outside (right for RH throwers).
- Uses: This is perfect for bending around obstacles quickly or finishing shots far to the right. Be careful; if you don’t put enough spin on an anhyzer shot, it can flip over completely and roll (turn into a roller).
Using Hyzer and Anhyzer for Control
Controlling the angle of attack (AOA) is crucial.
| Release Angle (RH Forehand) | Initial Flight Tendency | Best Use Case |
|---|---|---|
| Hyzer (Edge Down) | Flips up to flat, then fades left. | Tunnel shots, maximizing distance. |
| Flat (Level) | Flies straight, fades left reliably. | Straight approach shots. |
| Anhyzer (Edge Up) | Turns hard right immediately. | Bending around trees, aggressive shots. |
Common Flick Problems and Quick Fixes
Many players struggle with consistency in their forehand throws. Here are typical issues and how to solve them using specific drills.
Problem 1: Lack of Power or Distance
This is usually related to improper weight transfer or a weak snap.
- Fix: Focus solely on the weight shift. Practice slow-motion pulls, exaggerating the shift from the back foot to the front foot. Feel the ground push you forward. Also, ensure you are whipping that wrist at the end.
Problem 2: The “Wobbly” or “Rolling” Flick
The disc leaves the hand spinning unevenly, causing it to roll too early or wobble heavily. This points directly to an issue with the release timing or grip pressure.
- Fix: Film yourself. Are you releasing too early or too late? Work on keeping the disc flat through the pull. If the disc wobbles, you are likely not getting enough spin from the disc golf wrist snap flick. Practice throwing very light putters, focusing only on the snap sound, not distance.
Problem 3: Throwing Wide Right (The Fade Problem)
A right-handed forehand that flies far right means the disc is leaving the hand on a severe anhyzer angle, or the throw is “pushing” the disc rather than “snapping” it.
- Fix: Check your elbow alignment. It should be pulled in toward your body during the pull-through, not sticking straight out like a chicken wing. Focus on pulling the disc straight through the chest, perpendicular to your body line, not across your body.
Problem 4: Issues with Disc Selection
Beginners often choose drivers that are too fast or too stable for their current arm speed. This leads to immediate turn-over into the ground.
- Fix: Switch to slower discs. Start with putters or midranges (like a stable midrange) until you can throw them 200+ feet consistently and straight. Only then should you introduce fairway drivers. This directly relates to flick disc golf stability management.
Building Arm Speed and Strength Safely
To throw far, you need speed. But speed must be built safely to avoid injury, especially in the elbow and shoulder.
Importance of Warm-ups
Always warm up before throwing full power. The muscles used in the flick are different from the backhand and can be prone to strain.
- Arm circles (small to large, forward and backward).
- Wrist rotations.
- Light stretching of the chest and triceps.
Drills for Form Over Power
Use drills that force you to focus on mechanics rather than pure speed.
- One-Step Drill: Remove all footwork. Stand flat-footed and focus purely on the arm motion, weight transfer (slight lean forward), and the snap. This isolates the upper body mechanics.
- The Cross-Body Pull Drill: Hold the disc out in front of you as if gripping for a normal throw. Without pulling back far, focus on pulling the disc quickly across your body, emphasizing the elbow leading the hand. This trains the rapid acceleration needed for the forehand disc golf flick.
The Role of Practice in Perfection
Throwing consistently requires deliberate practice. Don’t just throw for distance every time you step up.
Focused Practice Sessions
Schedule practice sessions dedicated solely to the flick.
- Tunnel Vision Practice: Set up two cones about 15 feet apart. Throw 20 flicks at those cones, focusing only on hitting the gap straight. Use a stable disc.
- Field Work for Hyzer Flips: Go to a wide-open field. Practice throwing a hyzer flip disc repeatedly. Try to make the disc travel 50 feet flat before it begins its fade. Adjust your release angle slightly on each throw until you find the sweet spot for that specific disc.
Remember that achieving mastery in the flick disc golf technique takes time. Be patient, film your throws often, and make small, incremental changes. Every great thrower started where you are now, figuring out how to get that crucial disc golf wrist snap flick just right.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: What disc weight is best for learning the forehand flick?
A: For learning, lighter weights (150g to 165g) can sometimes be helpful initially because they require less raw arm strength to spin. However, most serious players prefer discs in the standard weight range (170g to 175g) for full-speed throws, as they cut through the wind better. Start with 170g to 175g stable midranges to learn timing.
Q: Why does my flick shot always fade too early to the left (for RH throwers)?
A: This almost always means two things: either you are releasing the disc on too much hyzer (too much edge tilted down), or you are not generating enough speed to overcome the disc’s natural fade. Try aiming slightly higher and focus intensely on snapping the wrist for maximum spin.
Q: Is the forehand flick grip different from a standard thumber grip?
A: Yes, significantly. The thumber uses the thumb pad over the top of the flight plate, with fingers underneath for support, and the throwing motion is mostly vertical. The flick grip uses the index and middle fingers on the rim for leverage, and the throw is horizontal, like throwing a baseball sidearm.
Q: How important is the angle of the elbow during the pull-through?
A: It is extremely important. For a powerful, straight forehand, the elbow should lead the pull-through, staying relatively close to the body until the point of acceleration. If the elbow flies wide too early, you lose power and create an open angle that leads to an unintentional anhyzer release.