Can you deliberately slice a golf ball? Yes, you absolutely can, but the term “slice” usually means an unintentional, often severe curve to the right for a right-handed golfer. What expert golfers aim for is a controlled fade shot, which is a slight, predictable curve to the right. This article will show you how to achieve that controlled fade and, perhaps more importantly, how to stop the uncontrolled slice.
Deciphering the Slice vs. the Fade
Many golfers confuse a bad slice with a good fade. They are both shots that move right for a right-handed player, but the key difference is control and degree of curve.
A slice is a drastic, often unpredictable curve. It usually happens because the clubface is very open at impact, and the swing path is severely out-to-in. This imparts too much side spin.
A fade is a gentle, controlled curve. It is a strategic shot used to hold greens better or to shape a shot around an obstacle. It results from a slightly outside-to-in swing path combined with a clubface that is slightly open to that path, but not wildly so. Mastering this shape requires excellent golf swing mechanics.
The Physics Behind Ball Flight: Why Balls Curve
To hit any specific ball flight shape, you must control two main factors at impact:
- Clubface Angle: Where the face points at impact dictates the starting direction.
- Swing Path: The direction the club head is traveling (in-to-out, out-to-in, or straight through).
To impart side spin on the golf ball, you need the clubface angle and the swing path to be different from each other.
- Hook: Face is left of the path.
- Slice: Face is right of the path (and the path is usually left of the target line).
- Fade: Face is slightly left of the path (and the path is slightly left of the target line).
For a controlled fade, the path needs to be slightly out-to-in (left of the target), and the face needs to be slightly closed relative to that path (but still open to the target line). This creates less side spin than a full slice.
Building the Controlled Fade: Setup Adjustments
To set up for a controlled fade, you need small, precise changes. Remember, we are aiming for precision, not power.
Stance and Alignment
Setting up correctly is the first step toward good golf ball trajectory control.
- Target Line: Aim your feet and body slightly left of your intended landing spot. This sets up the out-to-in path needed for the fade.
- Ball Position: Move the ball slightly back in your stance compared to a straight shot. This helps encourage the slightly shallower, out-to-in attack angle needed to hit the fade.
- Grip: Hold the club slightly weaker. This means rotating your hands slightly clockwise (turning them away from the target). This helps keep the face from staying too open through impact.
Ball Position Table for Different Shots
| Shot Type | Ball Position (Relative to Center) | Goal of Setup |
|---|---|---|
| Draw/Hook | Forward (Toward Front Foot) | Encourages in-to-out path |
| Straight Shot | Center Stance | Neutral path and face relationship |
| Fade/Slice | Slightly Back (Toward Trail Foot) | Encourages slightly shallower path |
Clubface Position at Address
This is crucial. For a fade, the clubface should be aimed where you want the ball to start (the target line). Your body alignment is left of the target, but the face points at the target. This slight difference sets up the necessary relationship between path and face.
Executing the Fade: Swing Path Control
The swing itself must promote an out-to-in path while maintaining decent golf ball compression.
The Takeaway
Keep the takeaway smooth and controlled. Do not try to force the club outside early. A good takeaway leads to better sequencing later.
The Backswing
Focus on width and finishing a full rotation. Resist the urge to lift the club steeply. A flatter backswing often promotes a slightly shallower angle of attack into the ball, which helps generate the desired path.
The Downswing Sequence
This is where the magic happens for hitting a controlled fade.
- Shallow Move (Optional but helpful): As you transition, focus on letting your hands drop slightly down before moving out. This helps shallow the angle of attack slightly.
- Path Out: The key to the fade is swinging slightly along your body line (which is left of the target). This creates the out-to-in path.
- Face Control: Crucially, you must manage the face. For a fade, the face must be slightly open relative to the out-to-in path. It should not be wide open to the target. A slight release through impact helps keep the face square to slightly left of the path, resulting in a fade, not a full slice.
Impact Feels for a Fade
The feeling should be less about “slicing” and more about “holding off the hands” slightly, allowing the body rotation to pull the club across the ball line. Think of swinging toward a spot slightly left of the target.
If you are trying to fix an existing slice, the feeling might be the opposite—feeling like you are swinging out toward the target line to neutralize the severe inside-out path that sometimes develops during slice correction attempts.
Fixing a Golf Slice: Addressing the Root Cause
If you are reading this because you want to stop slicing uncontrollably, the focus shifts from creating a fade to eliminating excessive side spin. An uncontrolled slice usually stems from one or both of these major faults: an open clubface at impact, or a severe out-to-in path.
Common Slice Causes and Slice Correction Drills
| Cause | Effect on Ball Flight | Slice Correction Drills |
|---|---|---|
| Open Clubface | Ball starts right and curves further right. | Hold a glove under your lead armpit on the downswing. Focus on feeling the clubface close. |
| Severe Out-to-In Path | Ball starts left (or on target) and curves sharply right. | The “Gate Drill” (see below). Focus on swinging in to the target. |
| Casting/Early Release | Loss of lag, often leading to an open face. | Hold a towel bunched up under both arms. Keep it there through impact. |
The Gate Drill for Path Correction
This drill directly addresses the out-to-in path inherent in a bad slice.
- Place two headcovers or small objects (the “gates”) on the ground.
- The first gate should be just outside the ball on the target side.
- The second gate should be slightly further out, creating a narrow opening inside the path of the clubhead.
- Your goal is to swing the club through the gates without hitting them. This forces you to approach the ball from the inside.
Ball Striking Improvement Focus
When fixing a slice, focus less on the result and more on the strike. Poor ball striking improvement often accompanies a slice because the edge contact (heel or toe) exacerbates the curve. Solid contact ensures maximum energy transfer, even if the face angle is slightly off. Practice drills that promote center contact.
Transitioning from Full Swing to Shorter Shots
The same principles of face control and path apply to your shorter irons, though the margin for error decreases. Proper iron play tips emphasize keeping the club moving through the ball, rather than manipulating it.
Hitting a Fading Iron Shot
When hitting a 7-iron for a controlled fade into a green:
- Align your body slightly left.
- Aim the clubface directly at the pin.
- Take a slightly shorter, smoother swing than normal. The goal is to maintain a controlled out-to-in path (slightly left) while the face tries to stay square to the target line. This results in a gentle fade that stops quickly.
Using the Fade with Wedges and Chipping Techniques
When hitting short game shots, the fade is often used to stop the ball quickly or to curve it around a hazard.
For chipping techniques, a fading chip involves:
- Setup: Ball slightly back.
- Swing: Keep the swing arc narrow and do not try to scoop the ball. A slightly open face that moves across the ball line (out-to-in) will create a low runner that fades slightly as it lands. This is different from an aggressive full-swing fade; it’s a subtle manipulation of loft and path.
Advanced Concepts in Golf Ball Trajectory Control
Once you can hit a controlled fade, you start manipulating spin rates for shot height.
Spin Rate and Trajectory
A fade generally produces higher spin rates than a draw because of the increased friction created by the glancing blow. Higher spin means more friction and a steeper descent angle, which helps hold firm greens.
Achieving Lower Trajectory Fades
If you need a low, running fade (perhaps into the wind):
- Club Selection: Choose a lower lofted club (e.g., a 5-iron instead of a 7-iron).
- Ball Position: Move the ball further back in your stance.
- Strike: Focus on hitting down on the ball with maximum golf ball compression. The combination of backward ball position and a steep angle of attack promotes a lower flight path that still carries the slight fade shape due to your setup alignment.
Drills for Mastering the Fade Shot
To consistently mastering the fade shot, consistent practice using visual aids is necessary.
The Alignment Stick Drill (Path Check)
This drill gives immediate feedback on your swing path.
- Place an alignment stick into the ground about one foot in front of your ball, pointing toward your intended target (the target line).
- Place a second alignment stick about 6 inches behind the ball, pointing toward the left of the target (your intended path line for the fade).
- Your club must swing between the two sticks. If you hit the outside stick, your path is too far out-to-in (bad slice). If you miss the inside stick, your path is too far in-to-out (hook).
The Tee Drill for Face Awareness
When hitting a fade, we are deliberately leaving the face slightly open relative to the path.
- Tee up two balls close together.
- Set up for your fade.
- Focus on hitting the outside ball (the one further left) slightly on the toe side, while ensuring the clubface is still pointing toward the target line at impact. This encourages the necessary rotation that keeps the face slightly open to the path, producing the controlled curve.
Common Mistakes When Trying to Fade the Ball
Many golfers trying to hit a fade end up hitting a weaker slice or, conversely, turning it into a hook.
Mistake 1: Over-Exaggerating the Path
If you aim your body too far left and swing too far across the ball, you create too much side spin. The result is often a pull-slice—the ball starts way left and then balloons further right.
- Correction: Keep your body alignment only slightly left of the target (a few degrees). Let the slight manipulation of the clubface at impact do most of the work.
Mistake 2: Manipulating the Face Too Much
Trying to actively rotate the hands to close the face quickly often leads to deceleration or a flip. This results in the clubface being wide open at impact, creating a massive slice, not a fade.
- Correction: For the fade, the face should be aimed at the target at address (or slightly right of the path). The goal is to not aggressively square the face early, allowing the natural release motion to close it relative to the out-to-in path, thus producing the desired slight left-to-right curve.
Mistake 3: Ignoring Ball Compression
If you swing too hard trying to force the shape, you lose connection, leading to poor golf ball compression. A poorly struck fade flies high and short. A well-struck fade is penetrating.
- Correction: Focus on a controlled tempo (about 80% effort) and maintain the sequence in the downswing to ensure solid impact.
Practice Regimen for Consistent Ball Flight Shaping
Consistent shaping requires dedicated practice, focusing on feel, not just result.
Warm-up Routine Integration
Start every practice session by hitting 10 shots with the intention of hitting a straight ball. This establishes your baseline golf swing mechanics. Then, hit 10 shots trying for a distinct fade. Finish by hitting 10 shots trying for a draw (opposite shape). This trains your brain and body to control the clubface relative to the path.
Yardage Checks
If you are mastering the fade shot with your 7-iron, it should travel a predictable distance. If your straight 7-iron goes 140 yards, your controlled fade might go 135 yards. If it goes 120 yards, you are likely over-slicing it, meaning you have too much side spin, and you need to reduce the difference between your path and face angle.
| Club Used | Intended Straight Distance (Yards) | Expected Fade Distance (Yards) | Spin Adjustment Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| 7 Iron | 140 | 132–138 | Less distance due to side spin reducing flight time. |
| 5 Iron | 165 | 158–163 | Lower trajectory helps keep distance loss minimal. |
| PW | 100 | 95–98 | Fade stops fast due to high friction/spin. |
FAQ: Addressing Common Fade/Slice Queries
What is the main difference between a slice and a fade?
A slice is an uncontrolled, often severe curve to the right (for a right-hander) caused by an extremely open clubface relative to a severe out-to-in path. A fade is a controlled, slight curve to the right caused by a path slightly left of the target line, with the face slightly open to that path but generally aimed near the target.
Can I hit a fade with a driver?
Yes, many PGA Tour professionals hit a controlled fade with the driver. It is often preferred because the lower spin rate allows the ball to run out further, and the slight curve helps keep the ball out of the left rough. It relies heavily on setting up an out-to-in path while keeping the face square to that path or slightly closed to it.
How does hand action affect my ability to impart side spin on golf ball flight?
Aggressive hand rotation, particularly flipping the hands early or holding them off too long, directly dictates the clubface angle. Trying to “scoop” or force the face shut usually causes a slice because the face is too open at impact. For a controlled fade, you need minimal manipulation, allowing the body’s rotation to control the face relative to the path.
Does the grip truly impact my slice correction efforts?
Yes, the grip is foundational to fixing a golf slice. A weak grip (hands rotated too far right) makes it very hard to square the face. Strengthening the grip slightly (rotating hands left) makes it easier to rotate the face back to square or slightly closed, which helps neutralize the out-to-int path that causes slices.
Should I use a fade when chipping?
For chipping techniques, a slight fade can be very useful on tight lies or when you need the ball to check up quickly on firm greens. You execute this by slightly opening the stance and swinging slightly across the line, much like a miniature full-swing fade, but with less force.