Can I reshaft my own golf clubs? Yes, you absolutely can reshaft your own golf clubs. Reshafting clubs is a common form of golf club repair that many dedicated golfers can do at home with the right tools and instruction. This process allows you to customize your clubs, extend their life, or simply replace a broken shaft.
This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about replacing golf golf shaft, from gathering your gear to finishing the job perfectly.
Why Reshaft Your Golf Clubs?
People choose to reshaft their clubs for several key reasons. Sometimes a shaft breaks, and replacement is the only option. Other times, you might want to fine-tune your setup.
Reasons for Shaft Replacement
- Damage: A cracked or bent shaft needs immediate replacement for safety and playability.
- Performance Upgrade: Newer shafts offer better flex, weight, or spin characteristics that match your swing speed better.
- Club Length Adjustment: You might want to shorten or lengthen an existing club.
- Swing Change: As your swing evolves, your ideal shaft profile might change too.
Knowing these reasons helps you choose the right new shaft for golf shaft installation.
Tools for Reshafting Clubs: Getting Ready
Before starting any golf club refurbishing, you need the correct equipment. Having the right tools for reshafting clubs makes the job safer and easier.
Essential Tool Checklist
| Tool | Purpose | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Heat Gun or Torch | To soften the epoxy holding the old shaft in the hosel. | A low-setting heat gun is safer than a direct torch. |
| Hosel Brush/Reamer | To clean out old epoxy from the hosel. | Crucial for a strong bond with the new shaft. |
| Shaft Puller (Optional but helpful) | Used to safely remove the old shaft after heating. | Makes removing tight shafts much easier. |
| Vise with Rubber Jaws | To hold the club head steady during removal and installation. | Rubber jaws protect the club finish. |
| Epoxy Mixing Supplies | Golf club epoxy for shafts, mixing sticks, small cups. | Use slow-cure epoxy for better working time. |
| Club Weights and Ferrules | New ferrules must match the club type (wood, iron). | Ferrules cover the joint between the shaft and the head. |
| Measuring Tape & Saw | To cut the new shaft to the desired length. | Use a shaft cutting guide for accuracy. |
Make sure all your tools are ready before you begin this process.
Step 1: Golf Club Head Removal
The first major step in replacing golf club shaft is getting the old shaft out. This is often the trickiest part.
Removing the Old Shaft
Assessing the Shaft Type
Shafts come in two main materials: graphite and steel. They require slightly different handling.
- Steel Shafts: These are very durable but can be stubborn to remove once heated.
- Graphite Shafts: Heat must be used carefully. Too much heat can damage the resin structure, making the shaft brittle.
The Heating Process
You must heat the hosel—where the shaft enters the club head. Heat softens the epoxy inside.
- Secure the Head: Place the club head firmly into the vise. Make sure the hosel is facing up or accessible.
- Apply Heat: Use your heat gun (or torch on the lowest setting). Apply heat evenly to the hosel area only. Avoid heating the club head body excessively, especially on thin-faced woods.
- Monitor Temperature: Heat for about 1 to 2 minutes. You are aiming for around 250°F (120°C). Do not let the head glow.
- Twist and Pull: After heating, gently twist the shaft. If it doesn’t move, apply heat for another 30 seconds and try again. If using a shaft puller, clamp it on and gently pull while twisting.
Safety Note: Always wear heat-resistant gloves when handling the club head after heating.
Step 2: Preparing the Golf Club for New Shaft
A clean hosel is the secret to a strong, lasting bond for your golf shaft installation. Any leftover epoxy weakens the new connection.
Cleaning the Hosel
This step is critical for successful golf club repair.
- Scrape Off Excess: Use a small, blunt tool to scrape out any large chunks of old epoxy from the hosel. Be gentle not to scratch the metal.
- Use the Hosel Brush: Insert the hosel brush (which looks like a small wire brush) into the hosel. Spin it by hand or use a slow-speed drill attachment.
- Ensure Depth: You need to clean the epoxy about a half-inch deep, matching the depth the new shaft tip will enter. The goal is to reach bare metal or the original ferrule seating area.
- Wipe Clean: Use a clean, lint-free cloth dampened with acetone (if safe for the club finish) to remove all dust and residue. Allow it to dry completely.
Preparing the New Shaft Tip
The tip of the new shaft also needs prep work, especially if it is raw graphite.
- Steel Shafts: Steel shafts usually come ready, or you might need to lightly sand the last inch of the tip if it has a protective coating.
- Graphite Shafts: Graphite shafts require a specific process called “tip trimming” and “abrasion.”
Deciphering Golf Club Tipping Guide
Tipping refers to cutting a small amount of material off the tip end of the shaft before installation. This process is essential because it stiffens the shaft flex, which is often needed when installing a new shaft into a club head that plays slightly longer than intended or when adjusting for a custom swing feel.
When to Tip a Shaft
A golf club tipping guide depends on the shaft type, club type, and desired stiffness.
| Club Type | General Tipping Recommendation (for standard flex) |
|---|---|
| Driver/Woods | Typically minimal or none (rely on butt-trimming). |
| Fairway Woods | 0.5 inches to 1.5 inches. |
| Irons (Long, 3-5) | 0.5 inches to 1.0 inch. |
| Irons (Mid, 6-8) | 0.0 inches to 0.5 inches. |
| Wedges/Short Irons | Often zero tipping. |
Important Rule: Always verify tipping amounts using the shaft manufacturer’s specifications. Incorrect tipping can drastically change playability.
Measuring for the Cut
- Determine Final Length: Decide the final assembled length you want for the club (e.g., standard driver length).
- Measure from Tip: Measure the required length from the tip of the new shaft to the point where it meets the desired butt-trim line (usually where the grip ends).
- Cut Accurately: Use a high-quality shaft cutter. Cut cleanly and precisely.
Step 3: Bonding the Golf Shaft Shaft
This is the assembly stage where you use the specialized adhesive to secure the shaft. Quality golf club epoxy for shafts is non-negotiable here.
Mixing the Epoxy
The quality of your bond depends heavily on mixing the correct ratio of resin and hardener.
- Use Slow-Cure Epoxy: We recommend epoxy that cures slowly (e.g., 12-24 hours). This gives you ample time to align the club head correctly.
- Measure Precisely: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions exactly for the mix ratio (usually 1:1 by volume). If the mix is wrong, the epoxy will never cure properly, leading to failure.
- Mix Thoroughly: Stir the mixture until the color is uniform, usually for about one minute.
Installing the Shaft
- Apply Epoxy: Apply a thin, even layer of the mixed epoxy to the tip of the new shaft. Avoid applying so much that it squeezes out excessively upon insertion.
- Insert Shaft: Slide the shaft quickly into the hosel.
- Align the Club Face: This is the most important part of golf shaft installation. Rotate the club head until the club face (driver, iron face) is pointing exactly where you want it at address. You can often use alignment lines or marks on the shaft tip for reference.
- Secure in Vise: Place the club head back into the vise, ensuring the face is perfectly square to the ground. Tighten the vise gently—just enough to hold it without damaging the head.
Adjusting the Ferrule
Once the shaft is seated, slide the new ferrule down the shaft so it rests snugly against the club head.
Curing Time
Leave the club untouched in the vise for the full cure time recommended by the epoxy manufacturer. Do not attempt to swing or even handle the club aggressively during this time. Do not rush this step. Rushing curing is the number one cause of premature shaft failure.
Specific Considerations for Different Club Heads
While the general process is similar, woods and irons have different requirements when replacing golf club shaft.
Reshafting Irons and Wedges
Irons are generally easier because the hosel depth is more consistent, and they are less prone to warping from heat.
- Tip Trimming: Irons require precise tip trimming based on the set progression chart to maintain consistent flex throughout the set.
- Ferrule Fit: Standard ferrules usually fit irons well, but some specialty heads might require specific ones.
Reshafting Woods (Drivers and Fairway Woods)
Woods present challenges due to their complex head structures and weight distribution.
- Hosel Depth: Wood hosels are often shorter or have internal weight structures that can be sensitive to heat.
- Graphite Care: Graphite shafts are much more sensitive to heat than steel. Use a lower heat setting and heat the hosel area for shorter durations.
- Weights: If you are installing a new shaft into a driver, you might need to adjust internal or external weights after installation to restore the swing weight to your preference.
Advanced Techniques in Golf Club Refurbishing
For those taking on complex golf club refurbishing projects, a few advanced steps come into play.
Adjusting Swing Weight
When you change shafts, the weight and balance point change. This alters the “swing weight” (how heavy the club feels at the end of the grip).
- Heavier Shafts: Usually increase swing weight.
- Lighter Shafts: Usually decrease swing weight.
If the feel is off, you can adjust it by adding small lead tape weights to the club head (to increase swing weight) or by adding weight beneath the grip cap (to decrease swing weight).
Dealing with Hosel Plugs (Drivers/Woods)
Many modern drivers have a removable hosel weight plug, often covering the area where the shaft enters.
- Removal: You may need a special Torx bit or small screwdriver to remove this plug before heating the club head.
- Reinstallation: After installing the new shaft and letting the epoxy cure, you reinstall the weight plug, often using a small amount of silicone or light epoxy to seal it if it screws in loosely.
Maintaining Your Work: Post-Installation Checks
After the epoxy has fully cured (wait at least 24 hours, preferably 48), it’s time for a final check.
- Check for Wobble: Hold the club firmly. Gently twist the head relative to the shaft near the hosel. There should be zero movement. If there is any play, the bond failed, and you must reheat and restart the bonding process.
- Check Alignment: Ensure the face angle looks correct relative to the shaft plane.
- Check Length: Measure the finished length from the bottom of the sole to the grip end. Compare it to your target length.
- Grip Installation: Once you confirm the shaft is secure, you can install the new grip. This involves using solvent (like mineral spirits) to slide the grip on and letting it set up overnight before use.
This completes the process of golf club repair and allows you to enjoy your newly customized clubs.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Reshafting
How long does the epoxy take to cure before I can swing the club?
Most quality golf club epoxy for shafts needs 24 hours to cure for handling and 48 hours for full strength. It is best practice to wait 48 hours before using the club for hard practice swings.
Can I use regular super glue instead of golf epoxy?
No. Super glue (cyanoacrylate) is brittle and will fail almost immediately under the torsional stress of a golf swing. You must use two-part, slow-cure epoxy specifically designed for bonding shafts to club heads.
What is the difference between butt trimming and tip trimming?
Tip trimming involves cutting material off the end that goes into the club head. This makes the shaft stiffer. Butt trimming involves cutting material off the handle end (where the grip goes). This is used primarily to set the final club length, and it has less effect on overall flex than tip trimming.
My old shaft won’t come out even after heating. What should I do?
If heating doesn’t work, the epoxy might be exceptionally strong, or the shaft might be keyed or seated very deeply. Reapply heat, ensuring you heat the metal ferrule/hosel area thoroughly. If it still won’t move, you might need a specialized shaft puller designed to exert stronger, controlled pulling force while heating. Proceed with caution to avoid damaging the club head.
Do I need to change the ferrule when I reshaft?
Yes, you should always replace the ferrule. The old ferrule may crack during removal, and it is designed to cover the connection point, providing a clean cosmetic finish. New ferrules ensure a perfect fit onto the new shaft.