Can I reshaft a golf iron myself? Yes, you absolutely can reshaft a golf iron yourself. Reshafting golf club heads is a project many golfers take on at home with the right tools and patience. This guide will show you how to perform a complete golf club shaft replacement safely and effectively.
Why Reshaft Your Golf Irons?
Golfers often need to replace a shaft for several reasons. Maybe the old shaft is damaged, or perhaps you bought used heads and need to install shafts that fit your swing speed. Changing golf iron shaft types can also drastically alter how a club feels and performs. You might want a lighter shaft, a stiffer flex, or even a different material like graphite instead of steel. Knowing the steps for installing new golf iron shaft parts ensures you get the best performance from your clubs.
Gathering Your Tools for Reshafting Golf Irons
Before starting, you must gather the correct tools for reshafting golf irons. Having everything ready makes the process much smoother. Do not skip this step.
Here is a list of essential items:
- Heat Source: A heat gun is necessary. Do not use a blowtorch, as it can damage the club head finish.
- Shaft Removal Tool: A golf shaft pulling machine is ideal, but a sturdy vise with rubber jaws can work for some sets.
- Safety Gear: Wear safety glasses and heat-resistant gloves. Metal or graphite shafts can snap under heat or pressure.
- Epoxy: High-quality golf club epoxy for shafts. You need a two-part epoxy made specifically for golf clubs.
- Shaft Prep Tools: A shaft cutter or hacksaw with a fine-tooth blade (for steel). A digital scale to weigh shafts.
- Scraping Tools: Utility knife or fine-grit sandpaper to clean the hosel.
- Measuring Tools: Tape measure or ruler.
- Shaft Insertion Aids: Wooden dowels or shims if needed to ensure the shaft sits centered in the hosel.
- Clubs and Grips: The iron heads and the new shafts. You will need to regrip after reshafting, so have new grips ready.
Phase 1: Removing Old Golf Iron Shafts
The first major task in reshafting golf club heads is safely getting the old shaft out. This involves heat and careful pulling.
Preparing the Club for Removal
First, mark the position of the shaft relative to the hosel. Use a marker to draw a line across the hosel and the base of the shaft. This helps you see how much the shaft was inserted, which is useful later.
Applying Heat to Loosen the Epoxy
Golf club shafts are held in place by strong epoxy. You must heat this epoxy to soften it.
- Secure the club head firmly in your vise. Make sure the vise grips the sole or the hosel area, keeping the club face protected.
- Use your heat gun. Keep the heat moving constantly over the hosel area (the part where the shaft enters the head). Do not hold the heat in one spot.
- Heat for about 30 to 60 seconds. The goal is to get the epoxy warm, not scorching hot. You are aiming for around 250°F (120°C).
Extracting the Old Shaft
This is where precision matters. If you have a golf shaft pulling machine, follow its specific instructions. This tool provides controlled, steady pressure.
If you are using a vise:
- Grasp the shaft firmly with your gloved hand or a specialized shaft wrench that grips the shaft well.
- Gently twist the shaft back and forth while pulling straight out. The softened epoxy should allow the shaft to slide out.
- If it sticks, reheat the hosel briefly. Pull firmly but smoothly. Avoid jerking motions that could damage the soleplate or hosel opening.
If the shaft breaks during removal, you will need to carefully chip out any remaining epoxy pieces from inside the hosel. Use a small pick or a specialized hosel brush tool.
Cleaning the Hosel
Once the shaft is out, cleaning is crucial for a strong bond with the new shaft. Residue from the old epoxy prevents the new epoxy from gripping properly.
- Use a utility knife or a dedicated hosel reamer tool. Gently scrape the inside walls of the hosel.
- Be careful not to scratch the inside of the hosel too much. You want clean walls, not gouged ones.
- Wipe the inside clean with a cotton swab dipped in acetone to remove all grease and fine dust. Let the acetone evaporate completely.
Phase 2: Preparing the New Shafts
New shafts usually come longer than needed. You must cut them to the precise length required for your set. This step often involves golf club tipping a shaft for steel shafts to adjust flex, or simply cutting the butt end for graphite.
Determining Final Shaft Length
The final length of your iron dictates swing weight and trajectory. Use a reliable tape measure. Measure from the end of the butt (where the grip will sit) down to the sole of the club head. Compare this to the manufacturer’s recommended length for that iron number (e.g., 7-iron).
Cutting Steel Shafts: Tipping Considerations
Steel shafts rely on tipping (cutting material off the tip end, the end that goes into the head) to control final stiffness or “flex.”
- Hard Stepping vs. Tipping: Some builders prefer “hard stepping” (using a shaft meant for a stronger club in a weaker club, like using a 6-iron shaft in a 7-iron) instead of extensive tipping.
- Tipping Rules: For standard iron sets, most club builders suggest tipping no more than 1 to 1.5 inches from the manufacturer’s specified raw length for that shaft model. Always check the specific shaft manufacturer’s guidelines for recommended tipping amounts based on desired flex (e.g., R, S, X).
Use a shaft cutter or a fine-toothed hacksaw. Mark the cut line clearly. Cut cleanly and perpendicularly. After cutting, use a metal file to smooth the cut end.
Preparing the Tip for Insertion
For steel shafts, you must rough up the last inch of the tip end. This gives the epoxy something to grab onto. Use 80-grit sandpaper or a specialized shaft prep tool. Wipe away all dust with a clean cloth.
Graphite shafts are different. You only need to remove the finish and primer coating on the bottom two inches of the tip using fine sandpaper (around 120 grit). Do not remove too much material, as this can weaken the shaft. Wipe clean.
Phase 3: Assembling the New Shaft and Head
This is the final assembly stage, requiring speed due to the curing time of the epoxy.
Mixing the Golf Club Epoxy for Shafts
You must use the correct ratio of resin and hardener, usually 1:1 by volume.
- Use a clean, disposable surface (like a piece of plastic or cardboard).
- Measure equal amounts of both epoxy parts. Small batches are best, as you only have 3 to 5 minutes of working time before the epoxy thickens too much.
- Mix thoroughly for at least 30 seconds until the color is uniform.
Applying Epoxy to the Hosel and Shaft Tip
A proper epoxy application ensures no air bubbles and a strong bond.
- Apply a thin, even coat of the mixed epoxy inside the clean hosel of the club head.
- Apply a slightly thicker coat to the tip of the shaft.
Inserting the Shaft
This step must be done quickly and accurately.
- Insert the shaft tip into the hosel of the club head.
- Push it down firmly to the depth marked earlier.
- Give the shaft a slight quarter-turn twist while pushing to spread the epoxy evenly.
- Immediately align the shaft perfectly straight with the club head and the soleplate. Check the club face angle (the lie angle). Ensure the shaft is pointing exactly down the center line of the sole.
Wiping Excess Epoxy
Any epoxy squeezed out of the hosel must be wiped away immediately. Use a paper towel lightly dampened with acetone or rubbing alcohol. If you let it cure, removing it will be very difficult and might damage the finish.
Phase 4: Curing and Final Touches
The club cannot be used until the epoxy has fully hardened.
Curing Time
Cure time varies by product, but generally:
- Handling Strength: Wait at least 2 to 4 hours before handling the club or attempting to remove it from the vise.
- Full Cure: Allow 24 hours before taking the club to the range or course. Rushing this step leads to a weak bond and potential shaft failure later.
Setting the Club in the Vise
If you need to hold the club perfectly still while it cures, place it back into the padded vise. Ensure the club head is aligned perfectly straight. You may need specialized rubber molds or soft wooden blocks to cradle the head without scratching it while it cures in the vise.
Regripping After Reshafting
Once the epoxy is fully cured, it is time for regripping after reshafting. Never install a grip before the epoxy is set, as the pressure from installing the grip can push the shaft deeper into the hosel or knock it out of alignment.
Follow standard grip installation procedures, typically using double-sided grip tape and mineral spirits to slide the new grip on easily.
Advanced Considerations in Reshafting
While the basic steps cover most jobs, advanced builders consider several other factors when changing golf iron shaft types.
Adjusting Swing Weight
When reshafting golf club heads, especially moving from heavy steel to lighter graphite, the swing weight (the balance point of the club) will change significantly. A lighter shaft often makes the club feel “head-light.”
- Adding Weight: You may need to add lead tape to the back of the club head or use heavier tip weights under the grip to restore the desired swing weight (D2 is common for irons).
Graphite vs. Steel Shaft Installation Differences
Working with graphite requires more caution than steel.
| Feature | Steel Shafts | Graphite Shafts |
|---|---|---|
| Tip Prep | Rough up thoroughly (sand/scuff) | Lightly scuff the coating only |
| Heat Tolerance | High tolerance | Low tolerance; easily damaged by overheating |
| Cutting | Use hacksaw; filing needed | Use a dedicated shaft cutter or fine hacksaw |
| Hosel Fit | Usually a snug fit | May require shims or thin wrapping tape if the fit is loose |
Working with Shimmy Tape (If Necessary)
Sometimes, if you switch to a different brand of shaft, the tip diameter might be slightly smaller than the hosel opening. This results in a loose fit before epoxy is added.
If you detect play or wiggle in the shaft before adding epoxy, you must use shimmy tape (thin masking tape specifically for shafts) wrapped around the tip until it slides into the hosel snugly. Add epoxy over the tape. This prevents the shaft from sitting off-center when you swing.
Troubleshooting Common Reshafting Issues
Even with good preparation, problems can occur during golf club shaft replacement.
Problem: The Shaft Won’t Come Out
If the shaft refuses to budge after reheating:
- Reheat: Apply heat longer, focusing the heat beam slightly higher up the shaft above the hosel for a few seconds. This might help heat the epoxy deeper inside.
- Tap: While pulling, tap the club head firmly on a piece of wood to shock the bond loose.
- Machine Check: If using a puller, ensure the clamping jaws are tight and the heat has been adequate.
Problem: Epoxy Doesn’t Cure
If the club feels weak or sticky after 24 hours:
- Temperature: The room temperature might be too cold. Most epoxies require temperatures above 70°F (21°C) to cure correctly.
- Mixing Error: You may have mixed the resin and hardener in the wrong ratio, or not mixed it long enough.
- Contamination: Oil or moisture inside the hosel prevented proper bonding.
If the bond is weak, you must reheat the club, remove the shaft, clean everything again thoroughly, and repeat the entire installing new golf iron shaft process with fresh epoxy.
Problem: Club Face Is Not Square
If the face is open or closed after insertion:
- If the epoxy is still wet, immediately wipe it, realign the shaft perfectly square to the sole, and secure it in the vise.
- If the epoxy is cured, you must remove the shaft, clean the parts, and re-epoxy. Do not try to bend the shaft or the head to fix alignment once cured.
Safety Precautions
Safety is paramount during removing old golf iron shafts and cutting new ones.
- Ventilation: Work in a well-ventilated area, especially when using acetone or heating epoxy.
- Eye Protection: Always wear safety glasses when cutting shafts or pulling old ones. Shafts can shatter.
- Heat: Be aware of where you point the heat gun. Avoid heating grips or finishes unnecessarily.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Reshafting Irons
Q: How much does it cost to reshaft a set of irons professionally?
A: Professional shops typically charge between $25 to $45 per club for labor, plus the cost of the shafts and epoxy. Doing it yourself saves significant money.
Q: Can I reuse the old epoxy if I just pull the shaft and put a new one in?
A: No. Old epoxy is hardened and brittle. You must remove all old material from the hosel and use fresh golf club epoxy for shafts for a strong, reliable bond.
Q: Does tipping a graphite shaft change its flex?
A: Yes, tipping a graphite shaft makes it feel stiffer, just like steel. Manufacturers provide charts detailing how much tipping is needed to achieve a specific flex.
Q: What if I accidentally cut my new shaft too short?
A: Unfortunately, if you cut the shaft too short before determining the final length, you cannot easily extend it. You will need to purchase a new shaft and start the cutting process again. This emphasizes the need to measure twice before cutting once.
Q: Do I have to regrip after reshafting?
A: While not strictly required if the old grip is in perfect shape, it is highly recommended. The heat used during removal can sometimes affect the grip tape underneath, and since you have the club apart, it’s the perfect time to install new grips for a fresh feel.