How To Refurbish Golf Clubs: Full Tutorial

Yes, you can absolutely refurbish your old golf clubs yourself, saving money and bringing back their look and feel. This guide will walk you through the entire process of golf club restoration, from basic cleaning to full cosmetic makeovers. Refurbishing golf clubs is a rewarding project for any golfer wanting to save money or bring new life to vintage sets.

Why Refurbish Your Golf Clubs?

Many golfers think they need to buy new clubs when their old ones look worn. However, with a little effort, you can significantly improve performance and looks. Sprucing up used golf clubs can feel like getting a brand new set. It also helps the environment by avoiding waste.

Benefits of DIY Club Refurbishing:

Saves significant money compared to buying new.
Allows you to customize the look and feel.
Restores lost performance characteristics.
It is a fun, hands-on hobby.

Phase 1: Initial Assessment and Preparation

Before starting any DIY golf club repair, you must check what needs fixing. Look closely at the heads, shafts, and grips.

Inspecting the Equipment

Examine each club thoroughly. Note any major damage, deep rust, or loose components.

Component	Signs of Wear	Action Needed
Club Heads	Dings, scratches, heavy face wear, rust	Cleaning, sanding, dent repair, refinishing
Shafts	Rust spots, dents, loose ferrules, cosmetic blemishes	Cleaning, rust removal, shaft straightening (if needed)
Grips	Cracks, slickness, hardness, peeling	Replacement (regripping old irons or woods)

Gathering Your Tools and Supplies

Good preparation makes the job easier. Gather everything before you start to work on repairing golf club heads or shafts.

Essential Supplies Checklist:

Mild dish soap and warm water.
Non-abrasive scrubbing pads or soft cloths.
Wire brush (for deep rust).
Fine-grit sandpaper (400 to 1000 grit).
Degreaser or mineral spirits.
New grips and double-sided grip tape.
Club cement or epoxy (if you need to re-shaft).
Safety glasses and gloves.

Phase 2: Deep Cleaning and Rust Removal

The first step in golf club restoration is getting the clubs perfectly clean. Dirt and grime hide underlying issues.

Cleaning Irons and Wedges

For irons and wedges, focus heavily on the grooves. Clean grooves allow for better spin and control.

Soak: Fill a bucket with warm water and a few drops of dish soap. Soak the club heads (not the entire shaft/grip) for about 15 minutes. This loosens dirt.
Scrub: Use a soft brush or toothbrush to scrub the faces and soles. Pay special attention to the grooves.
Tackle Mild Rust: For light surface rust, use a dedicated rust remover chemical or a paste made of baking soda and water. Apply it and let it sit for 10 minutes. Gently scrub with a Scotch-Brite pad (the lighter green or white kind is best for initial cleaning).

Cleaning Rusty Golf Clubs Effectively

Deep rust requires more aggressive treatment. This is crucial for refurbishing vintage golf clubs made of carbon steel.

Chemical Rust Removal Methods

Vinegar Soak: For heavy rust, soak only the club heads in white vinegar for up to 24 hours. Vinegar is acidic and dissolves rust. Warning: Do not soak for too long, as vinegar can etch the metal.
Electrolysis (Advanced): This method uses electricity to reverse the oxidation process. It is highly effective for deep rust but requires specific equipment (plastic tub, washing soda, battery charger, sacrificial metal). This is a powerful method for true club refinishing techniques.

Mechanical Rust Removal

After soaking, you need to remove the loosened rust layer.

Use a coarse nylon brush or fine steel wool (000 or 000 grade) carefully. Always brush with the grain of the metal finish if possible.
Rinse the club thoroughly with clean water immediately after any chemical treatment. Dry completely with a clean towel to prevent new rust formation.

Cleaning Metal Woods and Drivers

Metal woods (drivers, fairways) do not typically rust, but their paint and finish can dull. Use a mild detergent and a soft cloth. For stubborn scuffs on the sole or crown, a very light buffing with a polishing compound designed for automotive paint might help. Be extremely gentle around decals or painted areas.

Phase 3: Head Refinishing and Cosmetic Repair

This is where repairing golf club heads gets exciting. You can remove deep scratches or completely change the look.

Addressing Dings and Deep Scratches (Irons/Wedges)

Metal can only be reshaped so much before structural integrity is compromised. Minor dings can often be smoothed out.

Sanding: Use progressively finer sandpaper (start around 400 grit if the scratch is deep, moving up to 1000 grit). Always sand in the direction of the original finish grain. If the club is bead-blasted or matte, sanding will require a specific finishing step later.
Polishing: After sanding with high-grit paper (like 1000 or 2000 grit wet/dry paper), switch to a metal polishing compound (like Simichrome or Flitz). Buff the area vigorously with a soft cloth until the shine returns.

Re-coating Golf Club Finishes

If the bare metal looks inconsistent after cleaning or sanding, you might choose to coat the heads. This is essential for refurbishing vintage golf clubs that originally had a satin or matte finish.

Satin/Matte Finish Restoration

Many modern irons have a satin finish to reduce glare. To replicate this:

After polishing to a smooth, dull sheen (using 600-800 grit paper), you can apply a clear lacquer or clear spray paint designed for metal.
Alternatively, some hobbyists use specialized bead-blasting techniques (if they have the equipment) to achieve a uniform, non-reflective surface.

Black Oxide or Paint Fill Renewal

Cavity-back irons often have painted logos or cavity fills.

Use a small pick or needle to carefully remove all the old, chipped paint from the lettering and cavities. Clean the area with acetone or alcohol.
Use high-quality model paint (acrylics work well) to carefully fill the recessed areas. Let the paint dry slightly longer than the bottle suggests.
Once mostly dry, take a cloth dipped in mineral spirits or acetone and gently wipe across the face. The solvent should remove the excess paint from the raised metal surface, leaving the paint only in the recessed letters.

Phase 4: Shaft Maintenance

Refurbishing golf club shafts usually involves cleaning and addressing cosmetics. Major structural shaft repair is often best left to professionals unless you are experienced with bending or heat treatment.

Cleaning Graphite and Steel Shafts

Steel shafts need care to prevent rust from spreading, especially where the ferrule meets the hosel.

Wipe down the entire shaft with a degreaser or rubbing alcohol. This removes old oils and dirt.
For steel shafts with minor surface rust spots, use very fine steel wool (0000 grade) gently along the shaft’s length. Wipe clean.

Addressing Ferrules

The ferrule is the small plastic piece where the shaft enters the club head. If it is cracked, loose, or ugly, it should be replaced.

Removal: Heat the hosel area carefully with a heat gun (on a low setting) for about 30 seconds. The old epoxy holding the ferrule will soften. Twist and pull the old ferrule off with pliers.
Installation: Slide the new ferrule onto the shaft. Apply a small amount of golf club epoxy inside the hosel opening. Push the club head onto the shaft. Heat briefly again to help the epoxy set slightly and slide the ferrule firmly into place against the head. Wipe away any excess epoxy immediately.

Phase 5: Regripping – The Performance Game Changer

New grips are the single best way to make old clubs feel new. Improper grips cause loss of distance and accuracy. This section covers regripping old irons and woods.

Removing Old Grips

This is usually the messiest part.

Cut: Use a sharp utility knife. Carefully cut the old grip lengthwise down the back. Do not cut into the shaft itself!
Peel: Use pliers to peel or scrape off the old rubber grip material.
Remove Tape: This is critical. You must scrape off every bit of the old, sticky double-sided grip tape. Use a hook blade scraper or a rag soaked in mineral spirits to dissolve the old adhesive. A clean shaft ensures the new tape adheres perfectly.
Clean Shaft: Wipe the shaft area thoroughly with rubbing alcohol to remove any residue.

Installing New Grips

Proper installation ensures the grip doesn’t twist during your swing.

Apply New Tape: Apply new, specialized double-sided grip tape to the entire length of the shaft where the grip will cover, plus a small bit extra near the butt end. Leave the protective backing on for now.
Prepare the Grip: Make sure the new grip is oriented correctly (check the alignment logo).
Use Solvent: Fill a cup with a grip solvent (mineral spirits work too). Pour a generous amount inside the new grip and swish it around. Pour the excess out.
Slide On: Quickly remove the backing from the grip tape. Align the grip over the butt end of the shaft and slide it on quickly and smoothly using constant downward pressure. The solvent helps it glide on.
Position and Settle: Twist the grip until the alignment logo is perfectly straight. Let the club sit upright (butt end down) for at least 24 hours so the solvent evaporates and the tape bonds fully.

Phase 6: Refurbishing Woods and Drivers

Refurbishing golf club shafts on woods is often about dealing with cosmetic wear on the crown or sole. You generally cannot alter the loft or lie angle on modern composite woods without specialized equipment.

Dealing with Scratches on Titanium or Composite Crowns

Scratches on the top of the driver (the crown) are very noticeable.

Avoid Sanding: Do not sand the crown aggressively. You risk removing the finish or damaging the internal structure of composite materials.
Touch-Up Paint: Use high-quality enamel or automotive touch-up paint in the exact color of the driver’s crown (usually black or dark grey). Apply thin coats with a fine artist’s brush. Let each layer dry completely before adding the next. This hides minor scratches well.

Cleaning and Maintaining the Face Inserts

If your woods have removable face plates or inserts, clean these according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Often, a soft, damp cloth is all that is needed. Do not use harsh abrasives on the impact zone.

Phase 7: Final Checks and Testing

Once all steps in the golf club restoration process are complete, a thorough inspection is necessary before hitting the course.

Final Inspection Checklist

Loft and Lie: If you adjusted any iron heads (bending hosels), use a loft/lie machine or a reliable angle gauge to confirm the specs are correct for your swing. Note: Bending older, weaker chrome plating can cause cracking.
Grip Firmness: Ensure all new grips are completely dry and do not slip or twist when you apply strong pressure.
Head Security: Confirm that no heads feel loose on the shafts (especially important if you worked near the hosel or replaced shafts).
Weighting: Check that any adjustable weights in woods are screwed in tightly.

Testing the Results

Take your newly refurbished clubs to the driving range. Pay attention to:

How the ball reacts coming off the face (better grooves mean better spin).
How comfortable the new grips feel through the swing.
The visual appeal—does the new finish look professional?

If you followed these club refinishing techniques, your older set should perform much closer to new equipment.

Special Considerations for Refurbishing Vintage Golf Clubs

Vintage clubs (pre-1980s, often forged blades or classic persimmons) require a delicate touch. They often have softer metals or thinner chrome plating.

Forged Blades and Soft Metals

Forged irons are often softer than cast clubs. When cleaning rusty golf clubs of this era, use gentle abrasives like 0000 steel wool or even fine emery cloth instead of heavy sanding. Aggressive sanding can quickly alter the sole shape, which severely impacts how the club interacts with the turf.

Wooden Woods (Persimmons)

Persimmon woods require wood care, not metal care.

Cleaning: Use a mild soap and water solution. Dry immediately.
Conditioning: Apply a small amount of high-quality furniture oil or specialized club oil to the wood surfaces once the cleaning is done. This prevents the wood from drying out and cracking.
Finish Repair: Small nicks in the finish can sometimes be touched up with dark wood stain or lacquer pens, followed by a light coat of clear lacquer. Never soak these clubs.

Safety Precautions During DIY Golf Club Repair

Working with chemicals, solvents, and sharp tools requires safety awareness.

Ventilation: Always work in a well-ventilated area when using strong solvents, epoxy, or spray paints.
Protection: Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying metal shavings or debris, especially when grinding or sanding. Wear gloves to protect your skin from chemicals.
Heat Safety: Use a heat gun sparingly and keep it moving when heating ferrules or heads. Excessive heat can damage the epoxy holding the club head to the shaft, leading to premature failure.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Can I change the loft or lie angle on my irons myself?
A: Yes, you can, but it requires specific bending bars and knowledge. Bending irons requires applying pressure correctly at the hosel. Too much force or bending in the wrong spot can crack the neck, especially on older, chrome-plated irons. If you are unsure, seek a professional club fitter.

Q: How long should I soak rusty irons in vinegar?
A: For mild to moderate rust, 3 to 6 hours is often enough. For very heavy rust, you can go up to 24 hours. Inspect them frequently. If you see pitting or bubbling in the metal surface after soaking, remove them immediately, as the acid is eating the base metal, not just the rust.

Q: What is the best way to clean the grooves on old wedges?
A: Start with a stiff nylon brush and soapy water. If that fails, use a dedicated groove cleaner tool or a wooden tee to scrape out packed dirt. Avoid using sharp metal objects like screwdrivers, as these can damage the groove edges, which are vital for spin.

Q: How do I make sure my new grips don’t slip after installing them?
A: The key is a clean shaft and proper solvent application. Use high-quality double-sided grip tape specifically made for golf clubs. Make sure you pour enough solvent into the grip to thoroughly wet the tape underneath. Once the grip is positioned, leave the club perfectly still for at least 12–24 hours. The solvent must fully evaporate for the bond to cure correctly.

Q: Is it worth refurbishing very old, low-cost beginner sets?
A: If the heads are heavily damaged (deep nicks, cracked faces), probably not. However, if they are structurally sound but just need new grips and a deep clean, sprucing up used golf clubs like this is very cost-effective, especially for practice clubs or beginner sets.