How To Refurbish A Golf Club: Full Guide

Can you refurbish old golf clubs? Yes, you absolutely can refurbish old golf clubs. Many clubs can look great again with some careful work. Refurbishing saves money. It also brings back the feel of beloved older equipment. This guide shows you how to do it step-by-step.

Why You Should Refurbish Your Golf Clubs

Old clubs often have cosmetic issues. Rust, dings, and worn grips can hurt your game. Refurbishing fixes these problems. It makes old clubs look new. It also lets you customize clubs perfectly for your swing.

Benefits of Club Restoration

Save Money: Buying new clubs costs much more.
Better Feel: Restored clubs often feel better in your hands.
Environmental Impact: Reusing clubs is good for the planet.
Nostalgia: Some older models have great designs.
Custom Fitting: You can tailor weights and shafts during the process.

Part 1: Assessing Your Clubs and Gathering Tools

Before starting, check what each club needs. Some might just need a good clean. Others may need major work like reshafting golf clubs.

Initial Inspection Checklist

Look closely at these areas:

Grips: Are they slick or cracked?
Shafts: Are they bent, loose, or rusted?
Heads: Do they have deep nicks or heavy rust?
Ferrules: Are they cracked or slipping down the shaft?
Paint: Is the finish dull or chipped?

Essential Tools for Restoration

Gather these items before you begin any golf club restoration techniques:

Tool Category	Specific Items	Purpose
Cleaning & Polishing	Mild detergent, old toothbrushes, steel wool (fine grit), metal polish, WD-40	Removing dirt, light rust, and shining metal.
Grip Replacement	New grips, grip solvent, grip tape, vise with a rubber clamp	Removing old grips and installing new ones.
Shaft Work	Heat gun (low setting), shaft puller, new ferrules, epoxy	Removing and installing shafts.
Cosmetic Repair	Fine-tip permanent markers, enamel paint, fine-grit sandpaper	Renewing golf club paint fill and light surface scratches.
Safety Gear	Gloves, safety glasses	Protecting skin and eyes.

Part 2: Deep Cleaning and Rust Removal

The first big step is making the metal shine. This is key for cleaning oxidized golf clubs.

Simple Cleaning for Modern Clubs

For modern irons and woods that are not heavily rusted, start simple.

Mix warm water and a few drops of dish soap.
Soak the club heads for about 15 minutes. Do not soak the grips!
Use a soft brush or cloth to scrub off dirt and grime.
Rinse well under clean running water.
Dry immediately with a soft towel.

Deep Cleaning Vintage Golf Clubs

Deep cleaning vintage golf clubs often requires more effort. Older carbon steel clubs rust easily.

Tackling Surface Rust

Use WD-40 or a vinegar soak for light surface rust.

Dip a rag into white vinegar.
Rub the rusted area firmly. Vinegar helps dissolve light rust.
After 10 minutes, wipe clean.

Removing Stubborn Rust with Abrasives

For heavy rust, you need gentle abrasives. Be very careful not to change the club’s sole shape.

Use very fine (0000 grade) steel wool. Wet the steel wool with oil or WD-40. Rub in the direction of the grain on the metal.
For very tough spots, you can use a very fine-grit sanding sponge. Work slowly. The goal is rust removal, not metal removal.

Polishing the Metal Surfaces

Once clean and rust-free, it’s time to polish.

Apply a quality metal polish to a soft cloth.
Rub the metal surfaces in small circles.
Buff the head until it shines brightly. This brings back the luster to chrome or stainless steel.

Part 3: Fixing Head Issues and Looseness

A loose club head feels terrible during impact. You need to address this right away. Repairing loose golf club heads is crucial for playability.

Tightening Loose Hosels

If the head wiggles slightly on the shaft, the epoxy has likely failed.

Heat the hosel area gently. A heat gun on a low setting works well. Heat helps soften the old epoxy. Caution: Do not overheat or you can damage the shaft finish.
Twist the head slightly while applying heat. This helps break the bond.
Use a vise and rubber clamp to hold the shaft securely.
Pull or twist the head off the shaft.
Clean the inside of the hosel and the tip of the shaft thoroughly. Use fine sandpaper or a wire brush to remove all old epoxy bits.

Re-Epoxying the Head

This step is necessary after disassembly or if the head was loose.

Use a high-quality, two-part golf club epoxy.
Mix a small batch following the directions carefully.
Apply a thin, even coat to the shaft tip.
Insert the shaft into the hosel.
Align the club face exactly where you want it to sit at address. Use a club alignment stick or alignment marks.
Wipe away any excess epoxy immediately with a paper towel.
Clamp the club in the vise at the correct lie angle. Let it cure fully (usually 24 hours).

Part 4: Reshafting and Ferrule Replacement

Sometimes shafts are damaged, bent, or you want to change flex or weight. This requires reshafting golf clubs.

Removing Old Shafts (If Necessary)

If the shaft is damaged or you are changing it entirely:

Use the heat gun to warm the hosel area until the epoxy softens.
Use a shaft puller tool for the safest removal. If you don’t have one, gently twist the head while pulling firmly once it’s hot.
After removal, scrape all old epoxy from the tip of the shaft.

Preparing for the New Shaft

Shaft tip trimming is complex and depends on desired flex. For basic refurbishment, you usually just need to clean the shaft tip.

If using a steel shaft, use fine sandpaper to rough up the last inch of the tip slightly. This helps the epoxy grip.
If using graphite, use specific graphite prep tape or solution, or gently scuff the tip.

Replacing Golf Club Ferrules

The ferrule is the small plastic ring where the shaft meets the head. Replacing golf club ferrules improves the look dramatically.

Slide the old ferrule off (or cut it if stuck).
Slide the new ferrule onto the shaft. It should stop right where the old one sat.
Epoxy the head on as described in the section above. As the head seats, the ferrule should slide up neatly against the sole plate.

Part 5: Refinishing and Customizing Aesthetics

This stage focuses on making the clubs look sharp again, especially for irons and woods.

Renewing Golf Club Paint Fill

The numbers and logos often get chipped out. Renewing golf club paint fill adds a touch of professionalism.

Use a fine metal pick or needle to scrape out all the old, loose paint from the engraved areas (like numbers or brand names). Clean the area with rubbing alcohol.
Use a very fine brush or even a toothpick to carefully apply enamel model paint into the recesses. Pick a color that matches or complements the original look.
Let the paint dry for 15–20 minutes. It should start to set up but not fully harden.
Use a rag slightly dampened with mineral spirits or acetone (be quick!) to wipe across the painted area. This removes excess paint from the surface, leaving the color only inside the engraved lines.
Let the paint cure for 24 hours before heavy use.

Refinishing Old Golf Clubs (Aesthetic Touches)

For woods or wedges that need a complete overhaul, consider refinishing old golf clubs.

Sandblasting Golf Clubs (For Irons/Wedges)

Sandblasting golf clubs creates a uniform, matte finish perfect for applying new coatings or preventing glare.

Note: This is best done with professional media blasting equipment.
Blasting removes all rust, dings, and old plating.
After blasting, the club is bare metal. It must be coated immediately (often with a clear coat or specialized metal paint) to prevent flash rusting.

Refinishing Wood Clubs

Older persimmon or laminated woods require specialized care.

Use very fine sandpaper (400 grit, then 600 grit) to smooth the crown and sole. Go lightly to preserve the shape.
Wipe clean.
Apply several thin coats of high-quality polyurethane or lacquer meant for wood. Sand lightly between coats for a smooth finish.

Part 6: Regripping for Performance

Worn grips lead to tension in the hands, which hurts distance and accuracy. Regripping a golf club is the easiest upgrade you can do.

Removing Old Grips

Use a specialized hook blade or utility knife. Carefully slice lengthwise down the old grip. Avoid cutting into the tape underneath or the shaft itself.
Peel the old grip off.
Use a rag soaked in grip solvent or mineral spirits to scrub off all the old, sticky grip tape residue from the shaft. This is vital for the new tape to stick.

Applying New Grip Tape

Wrap the shaft evenly with new, double-sided grip tape. Overlap the edges slightly.
The tape should cover the entire area where the grip will sit, plus a small bit extending past the butt end of the shaft.
Remove the backing paper from the tape.
Place a small piece of tape over the open end of the shaft to seal it. This stops solvent from dripping into the shaft during installation.

Installing the New Grip

Pour a generous amount of grip solvent (or soapy water) over the inside of the new grip.
Place your thumb over the open end of the grip to seal it.
Slide the grip quickly and firmly down over the tape-covered shaft.
Align the grip markings straight down the center line of the club face.
Blow the air out and let it cure according to the solvent instructions (usually 12–24 hours before using).

Part 7: Final Checks and Play Testing

After all your hard work, give the clubs one final inspection.

Final Quality Control

Check every single ferrule. Is it flush?
Twist every head by hand. Is there any play?
Test the grips. Are they firmly attached and straight?
Examine the club faces. Are they clean and free of grease?

Testing the Restored Gear

Take your refurbished set to the range. Pay attention to how the clubs feel. A successful refurbishment means the clubs look better and perform as well as (or better than) they did when new. You may find that golf club restoration techniques have brought back performance you thought was lost forever.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: How long does it take to refurbish a set of irons?

A: If you are only cleaning and regripping a golf club set, it might take one afternoon. If you are removing shafts, sandblasting golf clubs, and renewing golf club paint fill on all of them, plan for several dedicated weekends. Curing times for epoxy and paint add significant waiting periods.

Q: Should I refinish graphite shafts?

A: It is generally not recommended to sand or blast graphite shafts. Sanding removes material and weakens the structure. If a graphite shaft is damaged, replacement (reshafting golf clubs) is the safest option. You can, however, clean them thoroughly.

Q: What is the best way to prevent rust on older irons?

A: After cleaning and polishing, apply a very thin layer of Renaissance Wax or Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish to the bare metal surfaces. This creates a barrier against moisture. Also, always dry your clubs immediately after playing in damp conditions.

Q: Can I fix deep gouges in the sole of a wedge?

A: Deep gouges that change the sole’s shape are very difficult to fix perfectly. Refinishing old golf clubs with paint fill might hide cosmetic damage, but significant structural dings affect turf interaction. If the gouge is massive, you might consider replacement rather than extensive grinding.

Q: What is the role of the ferrule besides looks?

A: While primarily cosmetic, the ferrule prevents moisture and debris from entering the shaft tip where it meets the hosel. It also acts as a bumper to stop the shaft from banging against the club head during hard swings. Replacing golf club ferrules is an important, easy step.