What is golf club refurbishment? Golf club refurbishment is the process of bringing old, worn-out golf clubs back to excellent playing condition, often improving their looks too. Can I refurbish my own golf clubs? Yes, you absolutely can refurbish your golf clubs at home with the right tools and a bit of patience. This guide will walk you through every step of the club refurbishment process.
Why Refurbish Your Golf Clubs?
Many golfers have old sets tucked away. These clubs might be heirlooms or just older models they loved. Restoring old golf clubs offers several big perks.
- Save Money: Buying new clubs costs a lot. Refurbishing is much cheaper.
- Keep Sentimental Clubs: If you love how a certain iron feels, refurbishment keeps it in your bag.
- Improve Performance: New grips and clean faces help you hit the ball better.
- Environmental Choice: Reusing old equipment is good for the planet.
Step 1: Assess the Damage and Gather Supplies
Before you start, look closely at your clubs. What needs the most work? Irons need different care than woods.
Identifying Key Areas for Work
- Grips: Are they cracked, hard, or slick? They need replacing.
- Shafts: Are they rusted, bent, or loose?
- Club Heads: Do they have dents, deep scratches, or rust?
- Ferrules: Are they loose or cracked where the shaft meets the head?
Essential Refurbishment Tools
You will need a good set of tools for golf club restoration. Gather these items before beginning:
| Tool Category | Specific Items Needed | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Cleaning | Mild soap, soft cloths, fine steel wool (#0000 grade), wire brush | Removing dirt and grime. |
| Rust Removal | White vinegar, WD-40, or specialized rust remover, fine sandpaper (600-1000 grit) | Tackling rust spots on heads and shafts. |
| Re-Gripping | New grips, grip solvent/mineral spirits, double-sided grip tape, vise with a rubber clamp | Replacing old grips. |
| Finishing (Optional) | Automotive paint, fine-tip paint pens, clear coat spray, polishing compound | Golf club paint touch-up and shining metal. |
| Assembly | Epoxy (golf club specific), heat gun (for ferrules) | Reattaching heads or shafts if necessary. |
Step 2: Deep Cleaning – The Foundation of Refurbishment
You cannot refinish golf club heads well if they are dirty. A deep clean removes built-up grime and prepares the metal surface.
Cleaning the Club Heads
Start with the grooves. Dirty grooves hurt ball flight.
- Mix warm water with a few drops of mild dish soap.
- Dip a stiff nylon brush or toothbrush into the solution.
- Scrub the face and the sole of the club head hard. Pay special attention to the grooves.
- For stubborn dirt, use a wooden tee or a specialized groove tool. Be gentle not to scratch soft metal.
- Rinse the club head completely under clean water. Dry it right away with a soft, clean towel.
Dealing with Rust: Cleaning Rusted Golf Clubs
Rust is common, especially on forged irons. Cleaning rusted golf clubs requires a slightly stronger approach.
- Mild Rust: Soak the club head (not the shaft, if possible) in a bucket of white vinegar for about 30 minutes. The acid eats away light rust. After soaking, scrub gently with a plastic scrubber or fine steel wool (#0000). Rinse very well and dry immediately.
- Heavy Rust: For deep rust, you might need a chemical rust remover. Follow the product instructions carefully. Always wear gloves and eye protection. After treatment, neutralize the area with baking soda and water, then dry quickly.
Step 3: Refining the Finish of the Club Heads
This step is about making the metal look good again. The method depends on the club head material.
Refinishing Chrome Golf Clubs
Many irons have a chrome finish. This finish can scratch easily.
- Light Scratches: Use a fine metal polish or a chrome polish compound. Apply it to a soft cloth and rub the scratched area in small circles. This helps blend minor blemishes.
- Deeper Scratches: If the scratches go through the chrome, refinishing chrome golf clubs is tough at home. You can try very fine wet/dry sandpaper (1000 grit, then 1500 grit) to smooth the area. Always sand with the grain if you see lines. Polish heavily afterward.
- Buffing: Use a clean buffing wheel (if you have a small bench grinder attachment) or simply use elbow grease with a soft cloth and polish to bring back the shine.
Refinishing Soft Metal Heads (e.g., Carbon Steel)
Soft metals scratch very easily. DIY golf club refinishing on these often involves sanding and re-bluing or oil-rubbing.
- Sand away deep blemishes using progressively finer sandpaper, starting around 400 grit and moving up to 1000 grit.
- If the club head is carbon steel, you can apply a light coat of gun blue solution (used for firearms) to create a dark, satin finish. This must be done quickly in a well-ventilated area. Wipe off excess immediately.
- Alternatively, many restorers simply oil these clubs heavily after sanding to prevent flash rust and give a satin look.
Repairing Golf Club Finish: Paint and Markings
The cosmetic look often depends on the paint in the cavities (the back of the iron face). This is where golf club paint touch-up comes in handy.
- Remove Old Paint: Use a sharp toothpick or a small screwdriver to carefully scrape out the chipped paint from the logos and numbers. Use a little lacquer thinner on a cotton swab to remove stubborn residue, but avoid letting it touch bare metal for long.
- Applying New Paint: Use hobby acrylic paints or specialized enamel paints. Match the color as closely as possible.
- Use a very fine artist’s brush or a fine-tipped marker pen for the actual application. Apply thin layers. Let each layer dry fully before applying the next.
- Once dry, you can carefully wipe any excess paint off the surrounding metal surface using a cloth slightly dampened with paint thinner.
Step 4: Inspecting and Treating Shafts
Shafts rarely need full replacement, but they must be clean and straight.
Cleaning Metal Shafts
For steel shafts, cleaning is crucial to stop rust creep.
- Wipe down the entire shaft with mineral spirits. This removes old grime and tape residue.
- If you see surface rust, wrap the rusted area with fine steel wool (#0000) and rub firmly. Be careful not to press too hard, as this can slightly alter the shaft’s flex or tip stiffness, though this is rare with light cleaning.
- If you are restoring old golf clubs with heavy chrome peeling, sanding and painting the shaft might be necessary, but this is complex and best left to professionals if performance is critical.
Checking for Bends
Hold the shaft horizontally at eye level. Rotate it slowly. Look down the length. If the shaft wobbles or bends noticeably, it might be compromised. A slight “bow” is normal on some shafts, but a sharp bend usually means replacement.
Step 5: Regripping Golf Clubs – The Most Important Performance Step
New grips are the single biggest improvement you can make to the feel of your clubs. Regripping golf clubs is a straightforward DIY job.
Removing Old Grips
- Secure the Club: Clamp the club shaft securely in your vise using a rubber shaft clamp. Make sure the club head is pointed slightly down so solvent doesn’t run into the head.
- Solvent Method (Best for removal): Use a long nozzle or syringe to inject grip solvent (or mineral spirits) under the old grip near the butt end.
- Twist and work the solvent underneath the grip until it feels slick.
- Slide the old grip off. It should come off easily.
- Clean the Shaft: This is vital. Scrape off all old tape residue using a dull scraper or solvent and a cloth. The shaft must be perfectly clean for the new tape to stick.
Applying New Grips
- Tape Application: Use dedicated double-sided grip tape. Wrap it around the shaft starting near the butt end and stopping about half an inch from the bottom end (the shaft tip). The tape should overlap slightly.
- Removing the Liner: Peel off the backing paper from the tape.
- Apply Solvent: Flood the inside of the new grip with solvent. Also, lightly spray the exposed tape on the shaft with solvent. This acts as a lubricant.
- Install the Grip: Slide the grip straight down onto the shaft quickly and firmly. Align the top reference line perfectly straight.
- Final Set: Tap the butt end of the grip gently on the ground (grip end down) to ensure it seats fully. Wipe off any excess solvent. Let the grips cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions (usually 12-24 hours) before using them.
Step 6: Addressing Ferrules and Hosel Integrity
The ferrule is the small plastic ring where the shaft enters the club head.
Tightening or Replacing Ferrules
Loose ferrules look sloppy and can sometimes hide a loose epoxy bond.
- Tightening: If the ferrule is just loose, you can sometimes heat it gently with a hairdryer or heat gun (low setting). As the plastic heats up, it shrinks slightly and may slide back into place snugly.
- Replacement: If the ferrule is cracked or missing, you must remove the old one completely (carefully cut it off).
- Slide the new ferrule onto the shaft before re-epoxying the head, or after the head is epoxied but before the epoxy cures fully.
- If you are working on woods, heat the ferrule slightly to get it flush against the hosel.
Checking the Head-to-Shaft Bond (Woods and Hybrids)
If you removed the shaft for deep cleaning or if the head feels loose on a wood, you must re-epoxy it.
- Clean the inside of the hosel thoroughly. Use a cotton swab dipped in acetone to remove all old epoxy residue.
- Clean the bottom end of the shaft where it enters the hosel.
- Mix a small amount of high-quality golf club epoxy.
- Apply the epoxy inside the hosel and on the shaft tip.
- Insert the shaft into the hosel, making sure the club face is aligned perfectly square (straight).
- Wipe away any excess epoxy immediately with a damp cloth.
- Set the club aside in the vise (using a shaft clamp) to cure for the time specified by the epoxy instructions—usually 24 hours minimum. Do not hit balls until it is fully cured.
Step 7: Driver and Fairway Wood Refinishing
Refinish golf club heads on woods presents unique challenges due to the composite materials used today.
Refinishing Composite Heads
Most modern drivers use carbon fiber or titanium. You cannot sand or heavily treat these surfaces like you would steel.
- Cosmetic Scratches: Use a plastic polish or fine automotive scratch remover on soft cloth pads. Work gently on the painted or clear-coated areas.
- Scuff Marks: Minor scuffs on painted crowns can sometimes be disguised using a black permanent marker designed for touch-ups, followed by buffing with a very light coat of clear coat spray.
- Warning: Never use harsh abrasives or strong solvents on composite crowns. You risk damaging the structural integrity or the finish coat, leading to delamination.
Dealing with PVD and Black Finishes
Black or dark finishes (PVD coatings) look great when new but show scratches easily.
- If a scratch is shallow, polishing gently with a jeweler’s rouge might help blend it.
- If the scratch is deep, the underlying metal will show. Repairing golf club finish on PVD coatings is extremely difficult for a home restorer. Often, it is best to leave deep cosmetic damage on modern woods alone.
Deciphering Long-Term Care for Refurbished Clubs
Once your clubs look great, keeping them that way requires simple habits.
Post-Game Routine
- Always wipe down your club faces after a round. Water and dirt left sitting in grooves cause wear.
- If you used solvent during the club refurbishment process, ensure the grips are fully dry before playing.
Storage Tips
- Do not store clubs loosely in the trunk of your car where they bang together. Use a quality golf bag with dividers.
- Avoid extreme temperature swings, which can affect epoxy bonds and grip materials over many years.
Advantages of Dedicated Club Refurbishment vs. Buying Used
People often wonder if restoring old golf clubs is better than buying used clubs that already look good.
| Feature | Refurbishment (DIY) | Buying Used (Good Condition) |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | Low (Mostly consumables) | Moderate (Purchase price varies) |
| Customization | High (You choose exact grips/paint) | Low (What you see is what you get) |
| Knowledge Gained | High (You learn maintenance skills) | Low |
| Club Selection | Limited to what you already own | Wide variety available on the market |
| Performance Boost | Guaranteed fresh grips improve feel | Performance depends on previous owner’s care |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Should I refinish the shafts on my woods?
Generally, no. Modern driver and fairway wood shafts are complex, often graphite or composite materials. Trying to sand or paint them can seriously weaken the shaft or imbalance the club’s swing weight. Focus only on cleaning the exterior.
How long does it take to complete the club refurbishment process?
For a full set of irons, including deep cleaning, rust treatment, minor paint touch-up, and regripping golf clubs, expect it to take 6 to 10 hours of active work spread over 2 to 3 days to allow for drying times (especially epoxy and paint).
Can I change the loft and lie of my clubs during refurbishment?
Yes, but this requires special bending irons and a sturdy vise setup. If you are new to restoration, it is safer to address loft and lie adjustments separately by a professional club fitter to avoid snapping the hosel, especially on older or weaker materials.
Is it safe to boil my club heads to remove old epoxy?
It is very risky. Boiling club heads, especially woods or those with soft inserts, can destroy them. For irons, intense heat (like a heat gun applied briefly to the hosel) is usually enough to loosen old epoxy when removing the shaft. Avoid boiling entirely.
What is the best way to repair small dings on the sole of an iron?
Minor dings on the sole (the bottom) are cosmetic. You can try gently tapping them out from the inside if you have access (difficult on cavity backs) or using fine sanding and polishing to blend the edges. Since the sole rarely interacts directly with the turf in the same way the face does, deep cosmetic dings here are usually best left alone if the club is structurally sound.