How To Change Golf Club Shafts: A Step-by-Step Guide

Can I change golf club shafts myself? Yes, you absolutely can change golf club shafts yourself using the right tools and following careful steps. This process, often called golf club re-shafting tools, is a common repair and customization task for golfers who enjoy DIY projects or need specific club adjustments.

Changing golf club shafts allows you to revive old clubs, correct damage, or customize your equipment based on a recent golf shaft fitting for clubs. This detailed guide will walk you through every step of changing golf club shafts, from preparation to final bonding.

Preparing for Your Golf Shaft Replacement Project

Before you grab any tools, preparation is key. Rushing this stage leads to damaged ferrules, heads, or shafts. Having the correct gear makes the entire process smoother and safer.

Essential Golf Club Re-Shafting Tools List

You need specific equipment for safe and effective removal and installation. Here is what you should gather:

Heat Source: A heat gun is the standard tool. A kitchen oven or open flame is dangerous and should be avoided.
Shaft Removal Tools: A sturdy shaft removal clamp (or a vice with soft jaws).
Safety Gear: Heat-resistant gloves and safety glasses are a must.
Cleaning Supplies: Acetone or denatured alcohol, clean rags, and sandpaper (or a brass brush).
Adhesive Supplies: High-quality, two-part epoxy made specifically for golf club shafts.
Measuring and Cutting Tools: A reliable golf club shaft trimming tool or saw, and a tape measure.
Tip Weights/Ferrules: New ferrules and any necessary tip weights.
Weighting/Assembly Tools: Shaft tipping tools if needed, and potentially a scale for swing weight checks.

Determining Why You Need a Shaft Replacement

People undertake golf shaft replacement for several reasons. Knowing yours helps tailor the process.

Damage Repair: A shaft might snap during play or practice.
Performance Upgrade: Swapping steel for graphite, or changing flex to match swing speed.
Club Refitting: After a fitting, you may need new lengths or lie angles.
Salvaging Heads: Reusing good clubheads with new shafts.

Phase 1: Removing the Old Shaft (Golf Club Shaft Pulling)

This is often the trickiest part of installing new golf shafts. You must heat the epoxy holding the shaft in the hosel without overheating the clubhead, especially with delicate composite materials.

Safely Clamping the Clubhead

First, secure the club. Use a dedicated shaft removal clamp or a bench vice fitted with soft rubber jaws. The jaws must grip the clubhead firmly, usually around the hosel or the sole, ensuring the head faces upward or sideways so the shaft points away from you. Do not clamp the sole plate or the face of the club.

Applying Heat to Loosen the Epoxy

Epoxy softens significantly when heated to around 250°F (121°C).

Set the Heat Gun: Use a heat gun set to a medium-high setting (around 500–600°F).
Heat Evenly: Point the heat gun at the collar or ferrule area where the shaft enters the hosel. Move the heat around continuously. Do not hold it in one spot. Heating too quickly can damage the finish or weaken the metal.
Monitor Temperature: Heat for about 60 to 90 seconds. You are aiming to soften the glue, not melt the metal. If you see smoke, stop immediately.

Pulling or Twisting the Shaft

Once heated, the epoxy is pliable. You need to remove the shaft quickly before the glue cools down.

Twisting Method: With your gloved hand, gently twist the shaft back and forth while pulling upward. The twisting action breaks the bond better than a straight pull.
Pulling Method: If twisting doesn’t work, use steady, increasing force to pull the shaft straight out of the hosel. If it resists strongly, apply a little more targeted heat.

Note: For woods and drivers, be extremely careful. Excessive force can crack the delicate sole plate or face insert. This is where DIY golf shaft installation requires patience.

Cleaning the Hosel

Once the shaft is out, you must thoroughly clean the inside of the hosel. Old epoxy residue interferes with the new golf club shaft bonding.

Scrape: Use a rag wrapped around a wooden dowel or a specialized hosel reamer to scrape out the bulk of the old epoxy.
Chemical Cleaning: Wipe the inside of the hosel with a rag dipped in acetone or denatured alcohol. This removes any lingering residue and prepares the surface for the new glue.
Inspect: Ensure the inside surface is clean, smooth, and dry before moving on.

Phase 2: Preparing the New Shaft

The new shaft needs careful preparation regarding length and tip reinforcement before it is inserted into the clubhead. This involves trimming and potentially tipping.

Determining Final Shaft Length

The final playing length of the club dictates how much the shaft must be cut. Always measure from the butt end (where the grip goes) to the base of the clubhead (where the old shaft was inserted).

Use a reliable tape measure.
Ensure the clubhead is seated correctly in the clamp as if it were fully assembled.
Compare this measurement to your desired final length. The difference determines the amount you need to cut from the tip of the shaft.

Shaft Tipping for Optimal Performance

Golf shaft tipping involves removing a small amount of material from the tip end of the shaft before insertion. This stiffens the shaft in that section, slightly reducing flex and kick point, which is crucial for woods and long irons.

Why Tip? Tipping increases effective stiffness (frequency) more predictably than simply cutting length. Irons generally require tipping based on their number (e.g., 1 inch for a 7-iron). Woods require specific manufacturer guidelines.

Procedure for Shaft Tipping:

Consult Specs: Look up the manufacturer’s recommended tipping for your specific shaft model and club type.
Mark the Cut: Measure the required tipping amount from the tip end.
Protect the Finish: Wrap masking tape around the shaft where you plan to cut. This prevents chipping or splintering of the shaft material.
Cutting: Use a fine-toothed saw (like a hacksaw with a high TPI blade) or a specialized shaft cutter. Cut slowly and steadily, perpendicular to the shaft.

Final Trimming (Golf Club Shaft Trimming)

After tipping (if necessary), you cut the remaining length needed to achieve the desired overall club length.

Measure the total amount to be removed (tipping amount + length adjustment).
Cut the shaft to the final desired length. Remember that inserting the shaft into the hosel consumes about 1 to 1.25 inches of length.

Cleaning the Tip Surface

Just like the hosel, the tip of the new shaft must be clean.

Sand: Lightly scuff the tip of the shaft with fine-grit sandpaper (around 120 or 180 grit). This helps the epoxy grip the shaft better.
Wipe: Clean off all dust and debris with acetone or alcohol. The surface needs to be completely oil-free for strong golf club shaft bonding.

Phase 3: Installing the New Shaft (Golf Club Shaft Bonding)

This is the culmination of your efforts—securely gluing the new shaft into the clubhead. Speed and preparation are vital here, as the epoxy has a limited working time.

Mixing the Epoxy

Use only high-quality, two-part golf epoxy. It generally comes in equal-volume parts (A and B).

Measure Precisely: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions exactly regarding the ratio of resin to hardener. Too little hardener means the glue never cures; too much can cause overheating.
Mix Thoroughly: Mix the two components completely until the color is uniform. You typically have about 3 to 5 minutes of workable time once mixed.

Applying the Epoxy

You need enough epoxy to coat the shaft tip fully and fill the hosel gap, but not so much that it floods out excessively.

Coat the Shaft: Apply a thin, even layer of mixed epoxy onto the bottom 1.5 inches of the shaft tip.
Coat the Hosel (Optional but Recommended): Some builders prefer to apply a small amount of epoxy inside the cleaned hosel as well.

Inserting and Aligning the Shaft

Work quickly but deliberately.

Insertion: Slide the shaft tip gently into the hosel. Do not force it immediately.
Seating: Once the tip is seated, slide the clubhead onto the shaft about a quarter of an inch.
Twist and Push: Twist the shaft slightly while pushing it fully into the hosel. You want the shaft to sit flush against the sole of the clubhead.
Alignment: This is the most critical step for woods and drivers. Align the graphics, sole stampings, or the shaft logo (if using a standard orientation) to the desired position (usually pointing straight down the toe line).

Securing the Shaft and Installing the Ferrule

Once aligned, you must hold the shaft steady while the epoxy begins to set.

Holding: Place the club back into the clamp, ensuring the alignment is maintained. Tighten the clamp just enough to hold it steady without crushing the clubhead.
Ferrule Placement: Slide the new ferrule (the plastic ring that covers the hosel joint) up against the clubhead. It will likely move slightly during the curing process, so ensure it is seated nicely against the head before the epoxy fully hardens.
Wait Time: Allow the epoxy to cure fully. This usually takes at least 24 hours, though many manufacturers recommend 48 hours for full strength, especially for drivers that experience high impact forces. Do not attempt to swing the club during this period.

Phase 4: Finishing and Quality Checks

After the curing period, you need to finalize the assembly and check your work.

Removing Excess Epoxy and Sanding

Once the club is rock hard:

Clean Up: Use a sharp razor blade held nearly flat against the clubhead to carefully scrape away any excess epoxy that squeezed out around the hosel joint. Be very careful not to scratch the finish.
Ferrule Check: Ensure the ferrule sits snugly against the head. If it has slipped down, you may need to heat the area very briefly (be careful not to overheat) and slide it back up before the epoxy fully sets around it.

Checking Swing Weight and Length

Your golf shaft trimming and tipping may have altered the club’s swing weight.

Swing Weight Scale: Use a swing weight scale to measure the balance point. If the weight is too light or too heavy, you may need to add lead tape to the head or adjust the grip weight.
Final Length Measurement: Measure the final assembled club length from the butt end of the grip to the sole contact point.

Grip Installation

The final step is installing the grip. Ensure the shaft length and clubhead are perfectly set before installing the grip, as removing a grip is more difficult than adjusting the shaft before installation.

Specific Considerations for Different Club Types

While the general process is the same, different clubheads require slight variations in technique, especially regarding heat management.

Irons (Steel and Graphite)

Irons are generally the easiest to re-shaft. The hosels are sturdier, and the weights are lower.

Steel Shafts: Can usually handle slightly higher heat application than graphite.
Graphite Irons: Require extreme caution with heat. Graphite shafts can delaminate or crack if overheated. Keep the heat moving constantly and check the shaft surface frequently.

Woods and Drivers (Metalwoods)

These heads are the most expensive and sensitive. They often have internal weights, face bonding agents, or adjustable weighting ports that can be damaged by excessive heat.

Focus Heat: Target the heat only on the exterior of the hosel/collar area.
Use Low Torque Epoxy: For drivers, some professionals opt for slower-curing, high-torque epoxies to maximize strength in the area that sees the highest stress.

Fairway Woods and Hybrids

These fall in the middle. They are often built similarly to irons but have higher loft angles, making alignment during the curing phase vital for face orientation.

Table: Shaft Preparation Summary

Action	Purpose	Tool Needed	Critical Note
Measuring	Determine final length needed.	Tape Measure	Measure to the sole contact point.
Tipping	Adjust frequency/stiffness.	Fine-toothed Saw, Tape	Consult manufacturer specs first.
Trimming	Achieve target length.	Shaft Cutter/Saw	Account for hosel insertion depth.
Scuffing Tip	Promote epoxy adhesion.	120-180 Grit Sandpaper	Clean thoroughly afterward.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Changing Shafts

Q1: How long does the epoxy take to cure fully after installing new shafts?
A: While some epoxies set enough to handle lightly in a few hours, full, rock-solid curing for maximum strength—which you need for hitting the club—usually requires 24 to 48 hours, depending on temperature and humidity. Always wait the full time recommended by the epoxy manufacturer.

Q2: Can I reuse the old ferrule?
A: It is highly recommended that you do not reuse the old ferrule. They often crack when removed, and reusing them can lead to a poor aesthetic fit or even trap moisture near the hosel joint. Always use a new ferrule during golf club re-shafting tools projects.

Q3: What happens if I don’t tip the shaft correctly?
A: If you don’t tip a shaft when required (especially graphite shafts), the club will play softer than intended. This can cause you to lose distance, accuracy, and control because the shaft will feel “whippy” during the swing. Correct golf shaft tipping is essential after a golf shaft fitting for clubs.

Q4: Is it okay to use superglue instead of proper golf epoxy?
A: No. Standard superglue (cyanoacrylate) is brittle and cannot handle the dynamic impact forces of a golf swing. It will shatter upon impact, potentially sending the clubhead flying. Always use a two-part golf-specific epoxy for reliable golf club shaft bonding.

Q5: How do I remove shafts from graphite woods without damaging the head?
A: Use very targeted, lower heat applied only to the hosel collar area. Heat for short bursts (15-20 seconds), then check for movement. The twisting method during removal is much safer than brute force pulling with metal woods. If you are unsure, consider having a professional handle the golf club shaft pulling on expensive drivers.