What is a cut golf shot? A cut golf shot, often called a fade, is a controlled shot that curves gently from left to right for a right-handed golfer (or right to left for a left-handed golfer). This shot is vital for advanced players looking to master trajectory shaping and manage difficult course layouts.
Learning to hit a cut shot is a game-changer for your iron play. It helps you avoid trouble and gives you more options when approaching the green. Many golfers struggle with a slice, which is an uncontrolled cut. The goal here is a gentle, predictable curve. We will break down the five main steps to achieve this reliable shot shape.
The Physics Behind the Cut Shot
A cut shot curves because the clubface at impact is open relative to the swing path. If the club moves slightly outside the target line (out-to-in path) while the face is slightly open to that path, the ball starts right of the target and curves back left (for a righty). Wait, this sounds like a slice!
Here is the key difference between a slice and a controlled cut:
- Slice: A large open clubface relative to the path, causing a big curve away from the target.
- Controlled Cut (Fade): A small amount of clubface opening relative to a path that is slightly outside the target line. The curve is gentle and predictable.
This shot relies on precision in ball striking. You must hit the ball cleanly to maximize distance and spin.
Step 1: Adjusting Your Setup for the Cut
The setup is the foundation of any successful golf shot. To promote an out-to-in path, we need subtle changes from your normal setup. These changes encourage the club to approach the ball from the outside.
Ball Position
For a standard draw or straight shot, the ball sits more in the center or slightly forward. For a cut shot, move the ball slightly back in your stance.
- Move the ball one ball width toward your back foot.
- This encourages the low point of your swing arc to happen slightly before the ball. It naturally promotes an out-to-in path.
Stance Alignment
This is perhaps the most crucial setup change. You need to aim your body slightly to the right of your actual target line (for a right-handed golfer).
- Target Line: The line pointing directly at where you want the ball to land (usually straight ahead).
- Body Line: Your feet, hips, and shoulders should aim slightly right of the target line. Imagine aiming down a railroad track that veers right of your final goal.
This open stance sets up the swing path to move slightly out and away from the target line.
Grip Adjustment
While some teachers advise a slightly weaker grip (more neutral or slightly open on the target line), minor adjustments work best. If your grip is too strong, it fights the cut motion.
- Keep your grip firm but relaxed.
- Ensure your V’s point roughly between your right ear and your chin. Avoid rolling the lead hand too far under the trail hand.
| Setup Element | Standard Shot Adjustment | Cut Shot Adjustment | Effect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ball Position | Center or slightly forward | Slightly back (toward trail foot) | Encourages earlier contact point |
| Body Alignment | Square to Target | Open (aimed right of target) | Sets outside swing path |
| Weight Distribution | Equal (50/50) | Slightly favoring the lead side (60/40) | Promotes forward shaft lean |
Step 2: Mastering the Takeaway and Backswing
The takeaway sets the tone for the entire swing. A common mistake when trying to hit a cut is lifting the club too quickly or taking it too far inside.
Keeping it Wide
Maintain width on the takeaway. Think about taking the club back low and slow, keeping your arms extended away from your chest for as long as possible.
- Avoid rolling your wrists early. Keep the clubface pointing somewhat toward the ground for the first few feet.
- This wide takeaway helps prevent the common tendency to pull the club inside too soon.
The Mid-Backswing Position
At the top of the backswing, the club should feel slightly less deep in the arc than usual. Because your stance is open, you might feel like you are swinging slightly “across” your body, which is correct for this shot.
- Focus on a full shoulder turn. Hip turn is secondary to shoulder turn here.
- For high handicappers, visualizing swinging to a spot slightly behind you (rather than directly behind you) can help maintain the necessary width.
Step 3: The Transition and Downswing Sequence
The transition—the moment you change direction from backswing to downswing—is where the magic for the cut shot happens. You must maintain the open body alignment established at address while encouraging an outside path.
Shallowing the Angle (Slightly)
For a pure draw, you want to drop the club down onto a very shallow angle. For a cut, you need a slightly steeper angle of attack compared to a draw, but still smoother than a harsh slice.
- As you initiate the downswing, let your lower body start the movement toward the target (a slight lateral shift).
- Crucially, the hands and arms must drop down slightly rather than immediately out toward the ball. This allows the club to drop into the slot without becoming overly inside.
Maintaining the Path
Remember your setup: your body is aimed right of the target. Your goal now is to swing the club along that body line initially.
- If your body is aimed right, and your club path follows that body line, the club is moving outside the target line. This is essential for promoting the left-to-right spin.
- Do not try to yank the club outside the target line aggressively. Let the open stance guide the natural path.
This controlled movement ensures you hit the ball with a descending blow, which is critical for solid ball striking with irons.
Step 4: Impact and Clubface Control
Impact is instantaneous, but the feeling you have leading into it determines the result. For the cut shot, you are managing two key variables: the swing path and the clubface angle relative to that path.
Clubface Management
To create the desired left-to-right spin, the clubface must be slightly open to the target line at impact, but relatively square to the outside swing path.
- Feel: Imagine hitting the inside-out of the ball slightly. For a right-hander, this means feeling like you are releasing the club slightly later than you would on a draw.
- Avoid Flipping: Don’t actively try to hold the face open too long, as this leads to poor contact or a mishit. The open body setup does most of the work.
Contact Point and Descent Angle
A good cut shot requires solid contact, often associated with excellent wedge control when hitting shorter irons.
- You still need that descending blow. The low point of the swing arc should be slightly after the ball. This compresses the ball against the turf, improving spin control.
- If you sweep the ball (a shallow angle of attack) with an open face, you will likely balloon the shot or create an awkward low hook.
Table: Ideal Impact Characteristics for a Controlled Cut
| Variable | Desired Position | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Swing Path | Slightly outside target line | Creates the starting direction right of target |
| Clubface Angle | Slightly open to target line | Creates the left-to-right spin |
| Attack Angle | Descending (negative angle) | Ensures solid contact and spin |
| Loft | Slightly less than normal | Due to the ball flight being lower |
Step 5: The Follow-Through for Trajectory Shaping
The follow-through solidifies the swing path and helps maintain the desired face angle through impact.
Finishing High and Left
Because your body alignment is open to the target, your natural finish position will look slightly different.
- For a right-hander, your belt buckle and chest should finish pointing more toward the right side of the course (or down the target line you aimed your body at).
- The hands should finish high, as you are swinging “out and around” rather than pulling them sharply across your body after impact.
If you try to hold the clubface open too long, the follow-through feels awkward, often resulting in a stalled finish. Trust the setup and path established earlier.
Managing Ball Flight
The cut shot inherently produces a low flight shot compared to a straight shot or a draw with the same club. This is excellent for playing under wind or attacking greens where high, soft-landing shots are not needed.
- When hitting mid to long irons for approach shots, this lower trajectory helps the ball roll out after landing.
- If you need a very low piercing flight (like hitting into a strong headwind), you might slightly decrease your backswing length, focus intently on the descending blow, and potentially de-loft the club further by ensuring good shaft lean. This is a specialized form of trajectory shaping.
If you are practicing chipping techniques, the same principles of an open face and slightly outside path can be used for a controlled running chip that fades gently toward the hole.
Troubleshooting Common Cut Shot Issues
Even when aiming for a controlled cut, golfers often revert to a slice or a weak fade that loses too much distance. Here are common problems and solutions:
Problem 1: The Shot Turns into a Big Slice
This means your clubface is opening too much relative to your swing path, or your path is too far outside the target line.
- Fix: Check your body alignment. Are you aiming too far right? Relax your grip slightly. Ensure you are not actively trying to hold the face open too long through impact. Focus on your body aiming slightly right, but the clubface meeting the ball relatively square to your path.
Problem 2: The Shot Starts Right and Stays Right (No Curve Back)
This is often a combination of an open stance and an open clubface at impact. The ball starts on the intended path and flies straight there, meaning the face was open to the target line throughout.
- Fix: Concentrate on the clubface squaring up to the target line just before impact, even if the path is still slightly outside. If you are using a 7-iron, the face needs to be very close to square to the actual target, even if the path is slightly away from it. This requires precision in your ball striking.
Problem 3: Loss of Distance or Thin Contact
If you are hitting the ball too high or thin, you might be sweeping too much (a shallow angle that is too shallow).
- Fix: Re-emphasize the descending blow. Ensure your weight transfer initiates the downswing and that you are allowing the clubhead to drop slightly, promoting contact on the downswing, essential for good iron play. This might mean using slightly less aggressive body opening in your setup.
Problem 4: Over-Commitment Leading to a Pull-Hook
Sometimes, trying too hard for a fade causes the hands to flip or the path to become too extreme (too far outside-in).
- Fix: Slow down the transition. The move from backswing to downswing must be smooth. Remember the goal is a gentle curve, not a drastic shape. Focus on your wedge control first with shorter clubs to dial in the feel before moving to the driver.
Practicing the Cut Shot Effectively
Practice sessions need structure to embed this specialized movement. Don’t just hit balls; shape them intentionally.
Drill 1: Alignment Sticks
Use two alignment sticks on the ground.
- Place one stick pointing directly at your target (Target Line).
- Place a second stick parallel to the first, but aimed slightly right (Body Line).
- Set up with your body along the second stick, ensuring your club swings along the second stick initially, promoting the outside path needed for the cut.
Drill 2: The “Stop Sign” Drill
This drill focuses on the impact position.
- Take half-swings, focusing only on the downswing and impact.
- At impact, try to feel like your hands are slightly ahead of the clubhead (forward shaft lean).
- Your chest and belt buckle should finish facing slightly right of where they started. This confirms you are not pulling the hands through too aggressively. This is critical for consistent spin control.
Drill 3: Clock Drill for Short Irons
When working on approach shots with wedges, use the clock face analogy.
- If your target is 12 o’clock, aim your body at 1 o’clock.
- Swing along the 1 o’clock line.
- The ball should start near 1 o’clock and curve back toward 12 o’clock. Start this practice with 9-irons and wedges where trajectory shaping is easier to control than with a driver.
When to Use the Cut Shot Strategically
The cut shot is not just a parlor trick; it’s a necessary tool for managing the course architecture.
- Doglegs Right: If the fairway bends sharply to the right, hitting a gentle cut allows the ball to follow the natural shape of the hole, preventing the ball from running through the fairway into trouble on the left.
- Wind Control: Hitting a fade brings the ball flight down. In strong headwinds, a lower flight is vital. This low flight shot resists the wind better than a high draw.
- Bunkers and Water Hazards on the Left: If trouble lines the left side of the green, aiming safely down the right side and allowing the ball to fade back toward the center provides a margin of error.
- Recovery Shots: Sometimes, a tree limb or hazard forces you to play around an obstacle. Having the ability to intentionally curve the ball left or right gives you incredible course management skills.
Mastering the cut shot requires patience. It runs contrary to the instinct many amateurs develop to correct a slice (which is often to hold the face closed). By committing to the open stance and the resulting out-to-in path, you gain control over your ball flight in a way that simply chasing straight shots never allows. Remember, finesse in iron play often comes down to mastering subtle shape changes.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I hit a cut shot with a driver?
Yes, you can hit a cut shot (fade) with a driver, but it requires precise ball striking and a slightly steeper descending blow than you use for a standard drive. Many professional golfers intentionally hit a slight fade off the tee for maximum control. Keep the same setup principles: slightly open stance, swinging along the body line.
What is the difference between a fade and a slice?
A fade is a controlled left-to-right curve. The clubface is only slightly open to the path, resulting in mild side spin. A slice is an uncontrolled left-to-right curve where the clubface is significantly open to the path, often leading to a dramatic loss of distance and accuracy.
How does the cut shot affect spin control?
A cut shot naturally imparts more side spin than a draw, but less backspin than a perfectly struck straight shot, due to the slightly shallower angle of attack often associated with the path. If you hit the cut too steeply, you can reduce necessary backspin, causing the ball to fly lower and roll out further.
Should I use this shot for all approach shots?
No. This shot should be reserved for when course conditions (wind, doglegs) or hazards demand it. For standard approach shots where maximum spin and height are needed to stop the ball quickly, a straight shot or a controlled draw is usually preferred. Reserve the cut for advanced trajectory shaping.