Yes, you can learn how to hit a cut in golf. Hitting a cut, often called a fade, is a great skill for golf trajectory control and managing tricky course situations. It means the ball curves gently from left to right for a right-handed golfer. This shot offers more control than a straight ball and is safer than a full hook.
Deciphering the Cut Shot: What It Is and Why You Need It
A cut shot, or fade, is a controlled shot that curves slightly from left to right for a right-handed player. It is the opposite of a draw or hook. Golfers use this shot for several key reasons. It helps stop the ball quicker on the green. It also lets you avoid trouble, like a big tree or water on the left side of the hole. Learning this shot is vital for improving your iron shot control golf. Many pros use the fade as their go-to shape.
Why a Fade Beats a Straight Shot
A straight shot is hard to hit perfectly every time. A slight fade gives you a buffer. If you swing slightly out to the right, the fade shape brings the ball back toward the target line. This is much better than a severe slice, which is an uncontrolled fade.
| Shot Type | Ball Flight (Right Handed) | Control Level | Primary Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Draw/Hook | Right to Left | Medium/High | Longer carry, holding greens |
| Fade/Cut | Left to Right | High | Course management, stopping power |
| Straight | No Curve | Low | Rare, needs perfect setup |
The Physics Behind the Fade: Face Angle and Path
To make the ball curve left to right, you need two things to happen at impact:
- The clubface must be open (pointing right of the target line) relative to the swing path.
- The swing path must be slightly out-to-in relative to the clubface.
This might sound tricky. Think about the goal: we want the path slightly to the left, but the face more open to that path. This creates “sidespin” that makes the ball drift right.
The Role of Clubface Angle
The clubface angle sets the starting direction of the ball. For a fade, the face must be slightly open at impact. If the face is square to your target line, the ball starts straight. If it is open to the target line, the ball starts right.
The Role of Swing Path
The swing path dictates the curve. For a fade, the path needs to be slightly “outside-in” relative to the target line. This means the club is traveling slightly toward the right of the target on the downswing.
The magic happens when the face is less open than the path. For example, if your path is 2 degrees outside-in, and your face is 1 degree open to the target, the ball will start slightly right and then curve back slightly left (a weak fade). To get a stronger fade that moves more right, you need a more open face relative to a slightly out-to-in path.
Step-by-Step Guide to Hitting a Fade
Mastering the fade requires subtle setup changes and specific swing thoughts. If you are currently fixing a slice in golf, you might already be close! A slice is just an exaggerated, uncontrolled fade.
Setup Adjustments for the Cut Shot
Setup is crucial for setting up the correct swing dynamics for a fade.
1. Ball Position
Move the ball slightly back in your stance. This is key. A slightly rearward ball position encourages the club to approach the ball from a slightly more in-to-out angle initially, helping you control the path later.
2. Stance Alignment (The Secret Sauce)
This is the most important setup change. You need to aim your feet, hips, and shoulders slightly to the left of the target. Think of aiming down the intended starting line of your fade.
- Target Line: Where you want the ball to land after the curve.
- Body Line: Aim your body parallel left of the target line.
This setup creates an inside-out swing path golf look, but when you swing along your body line (left), the clubface will naturally be more open to that path, creating the fade.
3. Grip Adjustment
Many golfers find they need a slightly weaker grip for a fade. A weaker grip means turning both hands slightly more to the right (for a righty). This makes it easier to keep the clubface slightly open at impact without blocking the shot. Do not weaken it too much, or you might lose distance.
4. Ball Height and Tee Height (If using a driver/tee)
For a slight fade with a driver, tee the ball slightly lower than normal. This encourages a descending or shallower blow, which can help control spin. For irons, play the ball slightly back, as noted above.
Swing Changes for the Fade Shape
Once your setup is ready, the swing needs to confirm the path and face relationship.
1. Takeaway: Maintaining Width
Start your takeaway wide and slow. Avoid immediately pulling the club inside. A wide takeaway sets up a good swing plane, making it easier to control the descent later.
2. The Backswing Top
Stop focusing on getting your hands high. Focus on getting your arms and shoulders turned fully. Keep the club on plane. Avoid getting the club too far outside the hands on the backswing.
3. Shallowing the Downswing Golf
This is where many beginners fail when trying to hit a controlled fade versus a slice. A slice happens when the path is too far outside-in, and the face is too open. For a controlled fade, you need to feel like the club drops slightly behind you in transition. This is called shallowing the downswing golf.
Think: “Drop the club down the slot.” This encourages a slightly in-to-out path relative to your body line (which is aimed left).
4. The Impact Position for a Fade
At impact, the goal is to maintain the slightly open face relative to your slightly leftward path.
- Do not try to “flip” your hands.
- Maintain your lag (the angle between your left arm and the shaft).
- The clubface should be slightly open, pointing slightly right of the target line.
This controlled impact position prevents the severe hook that often happens when trying to fix a slice incorrectly. If your path is slightly left (along your body line) and your face is slightly open to the target, you get the gentle fade.
5. The Finish
A fade finish often looks slightly less crossed over than a draw finish. Your chest might finish slightly more open to the target, feeling like you swung “out toward the right.”
Drills to Instill the Fade Motion
Practicing the right movements is the only way to make this feel natural. These drills focus on path and face relationship.
Drill 1: The Gate Drill for Path Control
This drill works on establishing the correct swing path relative to your body line.
- Place two headcovers or alignment sticks on the ground in front of the ball.
- Set the ball up.
- Place one stick slightly in front of the ball, aimed at your true target (where you want the ball to land).
- Place the second stick slightly further out, aimed along your body line (aimed left of the target).
- Your goal is to swing the club between these two sticks. Swinging between the sticks forces you into a path that is slightly out-to-in relative to the target line, which is necessary for a fade.
Drill 2: The Towel Under the Trail Arm Drill
This drill emphasizes connection and prevents the dreaded over-the-top move, which leads to poor golf swing slice correction attempts.
- Place a small towel or headcover snugly under your right armpit (for right-handers) before addressing the ball.
- Make half swings. You must keep the towel pinned during the downswing and through impact.
- If the club gets too steep or throws outside, the towel will fall out. This promotes shallowing the downswing golf mechanics needed for control.
Drill 3: The Face Control Drill (Impact Focus)
This drill directly addresses impact position for a fade.
- Take your 7-iron. Address the ball with your normal grip.
- Take the club back only halfway.
- From here, focus only on the bottom half of the swing. Swing down, focusing on keeping the clubface slightly open as you approach the ball.
- After impact, stop your swing when your hands are at waist height. Your clubface should clearly be pointing right of the target. This ingrains the feeling of a controlled open face relative to the path.
Correcting Common Fade Issues: Avoiding the Slice
If you try to hit a fade but end up with a ballooning slice, your technique is off. A slice is an uncontrolled fade where the face is too open relative to the path.
Why You Might Be Slicing Instead of Fading
| Problem | Resulting Motion | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Over-the-top move | Path is too far left (out-to-in) | Work on shallowing the downswing golf by feeling the club drop. |
| Face too open | Ball starts way right | Focus on squaring the face relative to your body line at impact. |
| Too much upward strike | High spin, ballooning flight | Move the ball back slightly in your stance. |
If you are trying to fix a slice, you might be overcompensating by trying to swing too far left. Remember, a fade is a controlled shape, not a desperate maneuver.
Advanced Techniques: Trajectory and Spin Manipulation
Once you can hit a standard fade, you can adjust it for different conditions. This is advanced golf trajectory control.
Hitting a Low Fade
A low fade penetrates wind better and stops quickly on firm greens.
- Ball Position: Move the ball even further back in your stance.
- Stance: Widen your stance slightly for stability.
- Ball Strike Drills for Golf: Focus on hitting down on the ball more aggressively (a steeper angle of attack).
- Finish: Keep your finish lower and less rotated through the shot. Your hands should finish lower and more forward.
Hitting a High Fade
A high fade might be needed to clear tall trees or carry hazards where you need maximum air time.
- Ball Position: Move the ball slightly forward of center.
- Swing Plane: Try to maintain a slightly shallower plane through impact (less steep downswing).
- Release: Allow a slightly more active release through impact, ensuring the face doesn’t stay too square to the path.
The Importance of Golf Wrist Action for Cutting the Ball
The way your wrists hinge and unhinge (release) dictates the clubface angle at impact. For a controlled fade, the goal is to delay the rolling over of the hands (which causes a hook) but still allow the face to be slightly open.
- Delaying the Release: Good players delay the squaring of the clubface until just after impact. For a fade, you want the clubface slightly open at the moment of truth.
- Lead Wrist Position: For a fade, the lead wrist (left wrist for right-handers) should remain relatively flat or slightly bowed through impact. If the lead wrist cups backward (bows backward), the face opens too much, causing a bad slice. If it bows too much forward (flexes toward the target), you will hook it. A neutral to slightly flat position promotes the controlled fade.
This precision in golf wrist action for cutting the ball separates the controlled fade from the accidental slice.
Path Control and Driver Fades
Hitting a fade with a driver is very common, especially for players who struggle with a chronic hook or need to shape the ball off the tee box.
When hitting a driver fade, the setup points become even more exaggerated:
- Aim far left: Aim your entire body significantly left of the fairway center.
- Swing along the body line: Swing aggressively down your body line (left).
- Face slightly open: The face must be slightly open relative to that leftward path.
This promotes the inside-out swing path golf necessary for maximizing driver distance while still controlling the curve. If you find yourself slicing your driver, review your setup—you might be aiming the clubface too far right relative to your aggressive out-to-in path.
Integrating the Fade into Your Game
Don’t try to hit a fade on every shot. A fade is a specific tool. Use it when:
- The pin is tucked behind a bunker on the left side of the green.
- You have a dogleg hole bending right.
- Wind is blowing from right to left.
- You need to hold the green because the ground is hard, and the fade will stop sooner.
If you are working on golf swing slice correction, learning the fade first can be a great bridge. It teaches you about path and face manipulation without the anxiety of trying to hit a perfect straight ball immediately. The fade is a shape you can trust.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: What is the main difference between a fade and a slice?
A fade is a controlled, gentle left-to-right curve (for right-handers). A slice is an uncontrolled, often severe left-to-right curve, usually caused by an excessive outside-in swing path and a face that is too open relative to that path.
Q: Can I hit a fade with every club in my bag?
Yes. The principles of aiming your body left and swinging along that line while keeping the face slightly open apply to every club, from the wedge to the driver. However, the visual curve will be less pronounced with shorter irons due to less dynamic loft.
Q: How do I know if my path is inside-out or outside-in?
You need launch monitor data or slow-motion video analysis. Generally, if you have to actively fight to keep the club from coming “over the top,” you have an outside-in path. A subtle inside-out path is needed for the controlled fade setup.
Q: Does a fade always go shorter than a draw?
Generally, yes, a fade tends to have slightly less total distance than a perfectly struck draw because the spin axis tilts away from the target line, causing a slight loss in forward momentum compared to a draw. However, the added control often makes the fade a better choice for scoring.
Q: I feel like I’m flipping my hands to hit the fade. What am I doing wrong?
Flipping indicates that your clubface is closing too rapidly after impact, or that you are initiating the change from the hands rather than the body rotation. To prevent this, focus on the impact position for a fade: maintain the wrist angle established at the top of the backswing through impact, letting the path guide the face angle. Practice slow swings focusing only on impact with a flat lead wrist.