A cut shot in golf is a shot where the ball curves gently from left to right for a right-handed golfer, or right to left for a left-handed golfer. This shot shape is also often called hitting a fade golf. It is a vital skill for controlling golf ball trajectory when dealing with hazards or needing to stop the ball quickly on the green.

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Deciphering the Golf Cut Shot
What is a cut shot in golf? It is an intentional shot that imparts sidespin on the ball, causing it to curve laterally. Why use this shot? Golfers use it to move the ball around trees, keep it out of high wind, or simply adjust for awkward lies. It is a key part of learning to work the golf ball.
Can I learn to hit a cut shot? Absolutely! Many golfers start hitting draws naturally. Learning to hit a fade or cut shot gives you the tools to manage the course better. It is often easier to learn for beginners than a big hook because the motion feels more natural to some swings.
The Three Core Elements of a Cut Shot
Hitting a cut shot successfully relies on manipulating three main parts of your swing:
- Clubface Angle: This dictates where the ball starts.
- Swing Path: This dictates the curve of the ball.
- Impact Point: This ensures solid contact.
To achieve the characteristic left-to-right curve (for a righty), you need an out-to-in swing path combined with a clubface that is slightly open relative to that path at impact.
Setting Up for Success: The Address Position
Your setup is the first place you introduce the required changes. A good setup makes the swing change feel much easier. This is crucial for repeatable golf cut shot technique.
Stance Adjustments
For a right-handed golfer aiming for a fade, you need to set up to encourage an out-to-in path.
- Aim: Point your feet and body line slightly to the left of your target. This sets up your path to move slightly “outside” the target line.
- Ball Position: Move the ball slightly forward in your stance compared to a straight shot. This helps ensure you catch the ball slightly on the upswing or at the bottom, promoting better turf interaction.
- Shoulder Alignment: Crucially, ensure your shoulders are aligned along your feet line (left of the target). If your shoulders aim too far left, you might accidentally swing too far left, killing the desired fade.
Clubface Alignment at Address
This is where many golfers get confused. To hit a fade, the clubface must be slightly closed relative to your outer swing path, but it should still aim generally toward where you want the ball to start.
- Key Point: When you set up, the clubface should point at your intended starting point, which might be slightly left of center, but it must be slightly closed relative to your body line. If your feet are aimed left, the face should point closer to the true target.
Mastering the Swing Path for a Cut
The swing path is the primary control for sidespin. A cut shot requires an outside-in path. This means the club head travels from outside the target line to inside the target line through impact. This is the golf swing path for a cut.
The Takeaway
Start slow. The takeaway sets the whole sequence in motion.
- Take the club away slightly more outside your hands than normal. Think of pulling the clubhead out and away from the ball in the first foot of the backswing.
- Keep your wrists firm. Avoid excessive wrist hinge early on.
The Transition and Downswing
This is the most critical phase. You must resist the natural tendency to drop the club inside for a draw.
- Shallowing the Golf Club: Normally, to hit a draw, you actively try shallowing the golf club by dropping it steeply inside. For a cut, you want to maintain a slightly steeper angle or allow the hands to come slightly more “over the top.” This does not mean chopping down aggressively, but rather resisting the urge to drop the club deep inside.
- Feeling the Path: Imagine swinging out toward a spot just outside the ball toward the right side of the fairway (for a righty). This promotes the outside-to-in movement.
Impact Position
At impact, the goal is an outside-to-in path combined with a clubface that is slightly open to that path.
- Path vs. Face: If your path is 5 degrees out-to-in, and your face is 2 degrees open to the target line (meaning it is 3 degrees open to the path), the ball will start slightly left and curve right.
- Contact Quality: Focus on hitting the ball cleanly. Poor strikes often negate the intended curve. This is essential for golf short iron control when trying to shape shots.
Adjusting Attack Angle for Fading
While path controls the curve direction, the angle of attack influences spin and height. Hitting a fade often benefits from a slightly steeper angle of attack than a draw.
Steeper Angle of Attack
A slightly steeper angle helps create the necessary spin axis for the fade.
- Drill Idea: When practicing, focus on having your lead arm (left arm for a righty) feel slightly more extended through impact than on a normal shot. This encourages a downward strike.
- Caution: Do not confuse this with an aggressive “chop.” It should feel controlled. Extreme steepness leads to fat shots. We are aiming for a shallow angle of attack golf relative to the desired result if we were hitting a draw, but generally, a fade involves less active leveling out than a draw. We are aiming for a controlled descent onto the ball.
Controlling Trajectory: Height Management
The cut shot naturally produces a slightly lower flight than a perfect straight shot hit with the same loft, mainly because the open clubface at impact reduces the effective loft slightly, and the spin axis encourages less lift initially.
Iron Play Trajectory Control
When iron play trajectory control is paramount, the cut shot is invaluable.
- To hit a lower fade (a stinger or knockdown):
- Move the ball back slightly in your stance.
- Choke down on the grip by an inch or two.
- Swing easier—only 70-80% power.
- Ensure the clubface is quite noticeably open relative to your outside swing path. This combination produces a piercing, low fade.
Executing a Punch Shot Golf Variation
A punch shot is often a low, straight shot, but you can adapt it into a low-spinning cut. If you need to keep the ball extremely low under tree branches or heavy wind, incorporate the cut shape into a punch.
- Use a mid-iron (like a 7-iron).
- Set up with your feet parallel to your target line.
- Hold the club lower (choke down).
- Swing with a three-quarter length.
- Focus on a minimal wrist hinge and maintaining that slightly outside-in path while keeping the face slightly open to the path. This creates a low ball that drifts gently right. This variation is excellent for executing a punch shot golf with shape.
Drills to Develop the Cut Shot
Practice makes consistent. You must groove the feeling of the outside-in path.
Drill 1: The Alignment Stick Drill
This drill directly addresses the swing path.
- Place one alignment stick on the ground pointing directly at your target.
- Place a second alignment stick about 6 inches outside the ball, pointing parallel to the first stick but further left (for a righty). This outside stick represents your target swing path.
- Your goal in the downswing is to swing the clubhead over that outside stick. This forces the outside-in movement.
Drill 2: The Towel Under the Trail Arm
This drill helps prevent dropping the club too far inside.
- Place a small hand towel or headcover under your trail armpit (right armpit for righties) on the backswing.
- During the downswing, try to keep the towel wedged there until after impact.
- If you drop the club too far inside (which leads to a draw), the towel will fall out too early. Keeping it secure encourages a shallower angle of attack relative to the desired draw path, which translates to a steeper, outside path for the fade.
Drill 3: The Gate Drill for Face Control
This drill helps control the starting direction while ensuring the path works.
- Place one tee just outside the ball (on the target line).
- Place a second tee slightly in front of the ball, aiming slightly right of the target line (for a righty). This creates a small “gate.”
- Your swing path must pass between these two points, aiming out toward the right.
- Now, check your clubface. If you swing out-to-in through the gate and the ball starts straight, your face is square to the path. To fade it, ensure the face is slightly open to that path as you swing through the gate.
Troubleshooting Common Cut Shot Mistakes
When the fade turns into a slice, or the desired shape doesn’t appear, check these common errors.
| Problem | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Ball starts too far left and curves wildly right (Big Slice) | Clubface is too open relative to the path, or the path is excessively out-to-in. | Align your shoulders more toward the target line at setup. Focus on slowing down the aggressive outside swing. |
| Ball flies straight or curves left (Hook or Pull) | You are dropping the club too far inside or the clubface is closed too much relative to the path. | Focus intensely on your takeaway, pulling the club slightly outside the hands. Feel like you are swinging out to the right. |
| Ball is too high or ballooning | Trying to lift the ball too much, or excessive loft at impact due to poor release mechanics. | Choke down slightly and focus on a descending blow. Use a lower lofted club for practice. |
| Poor contact (Thin or Fat) | Excessive steepness or trying too hard to force the outer path. | Return to shallowing the golf club slightly during the backswing transition before committing to the outside move. Improve contact first. |
Integrating the Cut Shot into Your Game
Learning to work the golf ball means knowing when not to hit a cut. The cut shot is situational, not always the primary weapon.
When to Use the Cut Shot
- Doglegs: If you have a sharp bend in the fairway (e.g., a left-to-right dogleg), a gentle fade lets you hug the corner safely.
- Wind Correction: Hitting a fade into a right-to-left wind neutralizes the wind’s effect, keeping the ball straighter in the air.
- Green Approaches: When approaching a green guarded by a bunker on the left side, a controlled fade into the right side of the green allows for a safe approach. This is great for golf short iron control.
When to Avoid Overusing the Cut
Do not default to a fade if your natural swing produces a slight draw. Forcing a fade when you naturally draw the ball can lead to severe inconsistency. Use it when the hole layout demands it. For maximum distance, the straight shot or slight draw is usually superior.
Advanced Considerations: Footwork and Body Rotation
For advanced players seeking greater consistency in hitting a fade golf, footwork matters.
- Trail Foot Stability: When swinging out-to-in, your body naturally wants to rotate aggressively toward the target to clear space for the outside path. Resist the urge to spin out too early. Keep your trail foot (right foot for a righty) more planted slightly longer than usual through impact. This stabilizes the lower body, allowing the arms to dictate the slightly outer path without causing a massive spin-out.
Conclusion on Mastering the Cut
The cut shot is a fundamental tool. It involves setting up slightly left and swinging slightly out to the right, ensuring the clubface is slightly closed relative to that outside path. Focus on the setup, practice the outside-in motion repeatedly using alignment aids, and manage your trajectory by controlling your attack angle. Consistent practice will lead to reliable iron play trajectory control and better overall course management.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Hitting a Cut Shot
Q: Does a cut shot mean I am hitting a slice?
A: No. A slice is an uncontrolled, severe slice that usually results from an excessively open clubface and a drastically out-to-in path, causing excessive curve and loss of distance. A cut shot (or fade) is an intentional, controlled shape where the clubface is only slightly open to the path, maintaining good distance control.
Q: Should I try to keep my head still for a cut shot?
A: You should aim for balanced movement, not perfect stillness. However, avoid lifting your head to see the flight early. Lifting your head often results in a steep attack, which can cause thin shots when attempting a cut. Let your body rotate through the shot naturally.
Q: Is the cut shot harder to hit than a draw?
A: This depends on your natural tendency. Most recreational golfers naturally slice (hit a weak fade). Therefore, learning to hit a controlled fade often involves correcting an existing over-the-top move, which can feel unnatural at first. For many, learning to swing from in-to-out (draw) is harder than learning a controlled outside-in move (fade).
Q: How much curve should I expect from a well-executed cut?
A: For a mid-iron (like a 7-iron) hit 150 yards, a good cut shot might move 5 to 10 yards left-to-right over that distance. If you are trying to hit a knockdown, the curve will be minimal. If you intentionally go for a large shape, you might see 15-20 yards of lateral movement.